The Great Wall of Europe

Take a step back in time by slipping inside Ston’s walls in Croatia, home to the second longest fortification in the world and the purest salt in the Mediterranean. It’s a cultural and culinary high.

By Karen Loftus

Driving in to Ston, can cause cultural confusion. At first glance you may think you’ve hit The Great Wall of China. Think again. It is considerably smaller than the Great one, but still manages to stretch across 5.5 km and stand between 5 and 10 meters high. It’s the longest fortification in all of Europe and second in the world only to China’s Wall.

Ston has long been in a prominent position geographically connecting the prime Peljesac Peninsula with the mainland and is home to extraordinarily fertile fields with an abundance of sea and salt.

Ston’s salt beds were built in the 13th century, as it was once a hot product that turned a large profit. Harvesting salt was no passing fancy. The locals took their salt and city seriously fortifying the city by the 14th century to protect their hot commodity.

Today Ston’s salterns are run in the same fashion as they were for the past eight centuries and continue to produce some of the purest salt in the world. Ston Bay is separated in to shallow pools of seawater and simply heated by the sun. The Mediterranean heat then causes the evaporation and crystallization. The shiny white sediment at the bottom of the pool is the salt that you may shake later. At first glance you can see the whiteness and shine, merely a showcase of the characteristics of the pure sea that it is derived from.

Aside from the salt itself, the region’s meats and cheeses are unique and known for their salty flavors. The grass that the cattle graze on has an increase in salinity in its soil effecting the meat and milk. So, if you’re a salty dog and wished you lived with a lick, you’re in luck. You can pour it on, on the plate or in your shake as sea salt is considerably healthier than salt from salt mines as it is rich in microelements and minerals.

Ston is as much of a destination as it is a salt producing region. It’s a noted stop along the stunning Dalmatian coast. So, after an evening on the idyllic island of Kortula, Marco Polo’s home, drive inland to one of Croatia’s many famous wineries that are dotted along the coast. Zinfandel is derived from the region’s indigenous Mali Pavic grape and produces some of the best reds in all of Europe. The Dingac will blow your wine mind.

After a few swirls, you can have a traditional lunch at one of the konobas, a restaurant where all that is served is locally sourced from the cured meats and cheeses to the wines. The setting is casual yet feels like a film set as it is so rich and traditional.

Post imbibing and nibbling; you can hit Ston en route to Dubrovnik, Croatia’s jewel box. After a close look and lick at the beds themselves, head up the hill along the wall to walk off the early morning sins. It’s a good workout and the dramatic otherworldly view of the beds from above makes it well worthwhile

Before leaving be sure to pop in to Mali Ston or Little Ston as its called for their famed oysters. They’re as salty and as succulent as they come. Washed down with a crisp Dalmatian Posip, Croatia’s best white wine will make this stop good to the last drop. Grab local salt for table and tub so you are but a shake and a dip away from recreating this Mediterranean magic. Cheers!

 Written and Photographed by Karen Loftus

Follow Karen on Twitter @LAKarenLoftus