Five-star luxury, Azerbaijan style

Rachel Roberts just can’t get enough of the spa at the Kempinski Hotel Badamdar, Baku, and after a ride in one of the city’s taxis, it sounds like she needed it….

"There are spas and then there are S-P-A-S; heavenly sancturies that take the pursuit of relaxation and indulgence to a whole new level and afford you a glimpse of a lifestyle you can but dream about. Like the luxury spa at the Kempinski Hotel Badamdar in Baku.

Even before you’ve slipped into your bathrobe and slippers or a therapist has worked their their magic on you, the gleaming white marble and crystal lights that glitter elegantly everywhere has a wonderfully calming effect. As does the huge water tank in the chill-out zone, filled with jewel-hued tropical fish bobbing around in hypnotic fashion. You feel instantly like you’ve ‘arrived’.

The Spa was the first place I headed to rejuvenate after a six-hour flight from the UK to Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan. The country, sandwiched between Iran and Russia, has a population of around 9.4 million and became the focus of international attention in 2012 when it hosted the Eurovision Song Contest in Baku’s Crystal Hall.

During a glorious 90-minute facial (where I lost count of the number of potions, scrubs and masks applied), my therapist told me that some of the 38 treatment rooms and suites are block-booked 365 days a year by super-wealthy clients. They may only visit for an hour a week, but it’s vital for them to feel like it’s ‘their’ space.

Much of the country’s wealth comes from petroleum; Azerbaijan is one of the birthplaces of the oil industry, and in recent years has become an important oil and gas producer again. Around 70% of occupants in the Kempinski’s 283 rooms are business travellers. There are also 36 fully-serviced apartments for those requiring a longer-term stay.

While tourists do visit from Russia, Iran and Turkey (the Azeri language is very similar to Turkish); only a small percentage arrive from Europe and beyond. This is something tourist ministers are determined to change, although there’s quite a way to go before the capital can compete with Dubai; their ultimate goal.

The Kempinski was built just two years ago so still feels box fresh. My impressive double room on the 7th floor was bigger than my entire flat in Brighton and had luxury touches including heated floors, a delightfully deep marble bath and a high-end sound system. While the ‘Turning Down’ Service every evening struck me as a little ridiculous and archaic, it’s an expected part of the experience for many five-star travellers.

A little less desirable is the hotel’s location; a fact heavily glossed over on the website. Described as being in the ‘heart of Badamdar district, close to the seaside’, more accurately, it’s in ‘the rather gritty outskirts of the city and a good 15-minute drive by taxi to the city’s waterfront’.

Those of a nervous disposition may also need a little lie down after their first experience in one of Baku’s taxis. Driving is erratic to say the least, and it’s the norm for drivers to get out in the middle of all the mayhem and start directing the traffic. There’s also a ‘creative’ attitude to taxi fares, so agree the price before your driver puts the pedal to the metal. As a general rule of thumb, expect to pay around 8 Manat (£6) to get into the city centre.

You could easily spend a couple of days relaxing in the hotel, which is really a self-contained complex. It includes two cloud-grazing towers, an outdoor waterpark, restaurants, shops, and oh, did I mention the spa? But a tour of the charming old city – a UNESCO World Heritage site – is a must, along with a night-time stroll along the waterfront to take in the striking modern architecture springing up all over the city, including the dramatic Flaming Towers – the three towers that seemingly catch fire when dark descends.

Back at the hotel, the professional front desk offers a service to be proud of, but some of the five-star flavour is lost in the dining experience. While an ‘eat as much as you like’ buffet is a novelty for the first night, four nights later, I was longing for a table set properly and an – la carte menu.

Sort that out, and just as the country has struck gold with oil, the Kempinski could strike it rich with the tourist market. Prices for the five-star experience here is still a relative steal, lingering in the country’s communist past. A package at the hotel, including a superior King Size room, use of the spa and a 90-minute massage can be yours for around €200."