A Slice of Sun Valley

Carve out a window this winter to explore the lure of Sun Valley. This iconic spot in Idaho continues to woo the rich and famous

Written and Photographed by Karen Loftus

Sun Valley has been a tastemakers town and Hollywood haunt since 1939 when Union Pacific Railroad Chairman Averell Harriman invited Hemingway, Hollywood stars and tip-top financial and political powerhouses like the Kennedy’s to the tiny Northwestern town.

That legacy still holds today as many of the guests strolling on Main Street hail from both coasts, from Hollywood and New York and local west coast posts such as Seattle and San Francisco.

It’s a very unique scene in Sun Valley as there’s a sophisticated yet understated slice of rustic elegance. It’s unlike anywhere else. People aren’t showing you their wares as is done in The Hampton’s and Hollywood. Everybody is somebody so nobody needs to prove it. It’s that understated grace that has kept the haves, not the have not’s pouring in to the tiny mountain town for several decades. It’s rich in tradition.

Walking in to the Sun Valley Inn, an iconic hideaway since 1938, I overheard an older gentlemen say, “We were at Jane’s house earlier.” He meant Fonda as that too was woven in as well. Those words swirled around while the celebrated images of yesteryear adorned the long hotel walls.

From Hemingway to Reagan to Cary Grant, Lucille Ball and fellow funny friends Jerry Lewis and Bing Crosby, they all had well documented and photographed holidays full of fun in Sun Valley.

While perusing the sales rack early on a Saturday morning, in one of the many athletic shops in town, I overheard things like, “When we were biking with Lance last summer,” and they were the women, young Moms that made Hollywood hot bodies look flabby. Besides money and blue blood-ers, everyone is in insanely great shape. Not your basic fit level of fitness. They are sick, super-sonic, AARP card carrying triathlete types.

In Sun Valley age is not an excuse, it’s an opportunity. I’m told the 50 and 60 year old women in town are in the best shape as the kids are gone. So, their focus is fitness. I met a guy in a gym in his eighties who was actively competing in triathlons. I ignored him and got a massage. To say I needed to step up my game didn’t even come close to what needed to go down in that town.

Triathlete’s aside, anyone would love the vibe in Sun Valley. The manipulated move of the railroad back in the day still makes sense today. There was a clever method to that madness.

It was never a beach town, so it need not compete. It’s a small town where they built a ski resort, the first of its kind in North America. It was designed to mirror the major tony resorts of Europe. To top their Euro counterpart, Sun Valley installed the first ever ski lift. The rest is Hollywood
and hob nob history.

So, if you want a slice of this good life, more cool and casual than say Aspen or Telluride, then this is your ticket. The place is jumping all winter long. The likes of Arnold and Maria are likely to swish by as is Demi and company. Bill Gates attends an annual meeting in town and when the symphony puts on free concerts in town Yo Yo Ma plays. That’s Sun Valley.

This isn’t Real Housewives. It’s the real deal. The upper crusted go there as unlike their Colorado counterparts, in Sun Valley you, your fame and your fortunes are left alone. That kind of class is hard to come by. It’s a chance to exhale.

I hit the stunner this summer. If looking to head in this winter, expect a wonderland of fun. Flights if not private, arrive in to Friedman Memorial Airport in Hayley, which feels like a friend’s garage. You’ll practically trip over the Hertz counter. Within minutes you’ll be driving through Hayley heading to Ketchum. It’s that easy.

Naturally you’ll check in to The Sun Valley Lodge where the idyllic Northern European village on the grounds is authentic and picturesque. With or without an après ski, head to the Duchin Lounge in the evening for Lodge ambiance, jazz and warm winter cocktails.

If the weather is right, take advantage of Fly Sun Valley Para Gliding. Proprietor Check Smith is world renown as he brought the sport to the states. The cast of characters that work for him are equally as impressive and entertaining.

They will walk you through the intricate process, engaging you in flight versus the Kiwi approach where they tell you to jump off the mountain, which I did. Chuck and my Mountain Man Tim were far more detailed. It’s truly the best way to see the city and it remains one of the top spots in the US and the world to get your glide on. So go!

You’ll leave with s series of in-flight pix and videos that are sure to impress yourself and others. If still craving some in flight fun, hit the slopes. Sun Valley’s Lodge measures in at 5,290. Bald

For a smoother ride in the spring and summer season it’s all about the river raft. The River Company in Stanley is the best in the business. You’ll hit the river with a few other boats in tow with an eclectic crew that spans from “I used to work with Mother Teresa, “ to “When we were river rafting in The Grand Canyon with heads of state and those behind the global finances…” Yup, that’s Sun Valley. That’s countered with precocious little kids that make you realize you’re not the bad ass you thought you were.

Late season, the ride is a quiet one, but ambient none the less. If you are looking for death defying spins, head out in May. Low means slow, high means a wild ride. Regardless, the fresh food a la family picnic style served mid ride on the riverbank is a slice of Idaho heaven. It will have you singing Kumbaya on the inside.

On the ride back to town stop at Red Fish Lake where the water looks like the Caribbean up to your waist. As you wage your disbelief, this scene will be scored with a local bluegrass band and paired with one dollar soft ice cream cones. You’ll feel properly spoiled in a subtle more seductive way.

In between action adventure and social activity squeeze in some retail therapy. Start at Burnsie’s store. She knows everyone and everything about Sun Valley. She’s got the inside skinny on it all and fun fitness fashion if you want a break from your North Face. If a label slave Elle Rose has every big name in business and a staff that sports it.

For true blue vintage vixens Déjà vu may be one of the best vintage stores on the planet. If you’re looking to turn every head at your next event with a unique vintage spin, this is your in. Be prepared to pay for it. Don’t worry you’ll thank me later. This place is to die for!

For local eats head to Cristina’s Restaurant and Bakery. It’s easy to overload on her decadent breads, but save room for her home made pastas and burrata cheese. In the evening check out Ciro’s wine bar and restaurant.

Finally for art angles, Sun Valley’s galleries are unrivaled. For such a small town they offer big international art that is so exclusive and cutting edge many celebs and hoteliers, Steve Wynn being one of many, buy their art for personal and professional reasons in Sun Valley.

Check out Frederic Boloix’s one room gallery full of Picasso’s Matisse and Chagall and Cuban artist Gustavo Acosta’s large cityscapes of Havana and Mexico City or slip in to Gail Severn’s Gallery to see Hung Liu’s original black and white photos from Mao’s time that inspired paintings. They are simply stunning! That’s Sun Valley.

ART: Gail Severn – www.GailSevernGallery.com, Frederic Boloix – www.Boloix.com

EAT: Cristina’s – www.CristinasofSunValley.com

Ciro’s – www.CiroSunValley.com

FASHION: Burnsie’s www.Burnsies.biz

DejaVu – www.DejaVuVintageStore.com

FUN: Fly Sun Valley – www.FlySunValley.com

The River Company – www.TheRiverCompany.com

You can follow Karen on her many adventures and jaunts on The Global Road on Twitter @LAKarenLoftus

* Paragliding pix taken by Fly Sun Valley. River Raft pic taken by The River Co.