Bagels with the Vegas touch
Charles Kao checked out the new Sadelle’s Las Vegas at Bellagio to see how it compares with its SoHo sister.
Sadelle’s, SoHo’s well known all-day bakery and restaurant from Major Food Group (Mario Carbone and friends), has opened in Las Vegas. It’s four times the size of its New York sister and overlooks the exquisite Bellagio Conservatory on one side and the pool on another.
Cher’s performance finished late, so we didn’t arrive until after 10 pm. My two colleagues were first taken by the decor and colours of Sadelle’s Las Vegas. The plush interiors are timeless with marble floors of jade green and pink onyx and sumptuous green sofas and chairs in the shape of clamshells.
While I ordered a classic – a glass of Veuve Cliquot Brut – Jessica and Alexandra, who are experienced with top Los Angeles bars, went for the fresh blood orange Prosecco and Belvedere pink grapefruit vodka and loved it. It was, they said, the perfect mix.
We all love oysters, so began with the East Coast oyster, which tasted like heaven, perfectly accompanied with a selection of light herb toppings. Sadelle’s signature ‘Tower’ was served next, showcasing a selection of smoked fish, including smoked salmon made in house and its famous freshly made bagels with bagel accoutrements. Everything, from the bread and famous bagels, to the sauces and salads, are made from scratch.
The salmon practically melts in your mouth, some of the best we’ve ever tasted. The white fish tartare was deliciously fresh with just the right mix of herbs and sauces. For us, ex New York City dwellers (so we know our stuff!) the bagels were a 10. We set aside the salad with whole lobster, green beans, potato, tomato, avocado and the Freddy salad with shrimp, heart of palm, avocado, radish, crispy shallots, since the entree also arrived.
While we all liked salmon crispy on the outside and medium cooked on the inside, Sadelle’s roasted salmon (fresh water) with asparagus and mustard vinaigrette was crisped just right, with a light sprinkle of sea salt. Alexandra said: "They honour simple food". We all agreed. The grilled branzino – a light coloured ocean salmon – with sesame spinach was light and extremely tasty. The steamed asparagus was perfectly cooked, slightly crispy on the outside and perfectly soft on the inside.
After two hours of tasting it was midnight so we called it a day and headed back to the hotel with our untouched salads and of course left over bagels and accoutrements.
I had checked Sadelle’s Yelp and Trip Advisor ratings before dining there and most reviews were related to breakfast, where they are swamped. I can also highly recommend the evening fine dining experience. The savvy creators have taken the Sadelle’s So-Ho concept and elevated it to a whole new level, giving it a touch of Las Vegas glamour. I can’t wait to go back.
Charles Kao
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