FLORIDA: Dolphins, sea lions, iguanas, and a giant fish called Scarface

Bev Fearis and family do the highlights of Islamorada, but make sure they get some hammock time…

We woke up early and took a quick dip in the Pine and Palms’ heated pool. It was like a bath, but we still couldn’t tempt Freddie to come in deeper than the second step. After breakfast, we drove five minutes to the Theatre of the Seas, a quaint little family-owned aquarium that prides itself on giving visitors the opportunity to get up close to the wildlife. Rather than making your own way around, you’re taken around in small groups by young guides who tell you all about the inhabitants, all rescued. As well as seeing sealife in pools and enclosures, the aquarium has a little beach where you can swim and snorkel with stingrays, tropical fish and baby barracudas (once they’re too big they move them), and even a couple of lobster. There’s a parrot show, which is both educational and fun and involves a bit of audience participation. The dolphin show is in a small theatre where you get a fabulous close up view of these amazingly clever creatures, and a little bit wet too. If you’re lucky, you might even be picked to step on to the dock to stroke one of the dolphin stars, or even steal a dolphin kiss.

The sea lion show is cheesy but brilliant and the kids loved it. The sea lion’s expressions were hilarious, but at one point it was upstaged by a giant iguana that inadvertently joined the stage.

Next, it was off to Robbie’s Marina, an Islamorada institution where you can hire kayaks to explore the mangroves, or jet skis, or join a fishing trip. We were here, however, to feed the giant tarpons which come to the dock eager to be fed.

Robbie and his wife Mona started feeding one particular injured tarpon, nicknamed Scarface, 18 years ago. He put it in a tank and called the doctor and Scarface became the first known tarpon with stitches. After several days of force-feeding, Scarface put on weight and started to recover. Six months later he was released into the waters off the dock but continued to return to the dock, sometimes bringing a friend. Today, up to 100 hungry tarpon hang around waiting for excited and slightly nervous visitors to feed them.

We joined the queue, bought a bucket of fish, has a quick briefing, and then headed down to the far end of the dock to see what all the fuss was about. Under instruction, we lay on our tummies, leaning into the water and dangling the fish a few inches above the water. The massive tarpon swam wildly just under the surface of the water, slimy like eels, and then, suddenly, a massive jaw would leap out of the water and the fish was gone. No matter how much you prepared yourself for it, every time it made you jump out of your skin. It’s quite an experience.

Alongside the marina Robbie’s has a little beach, shops and stalls and the popular fish shack, appropriately named the Hungry Tarpo. It’s a little shack with mostly outside seating overlooking the bay and serving up delicious Caribbean-inspired seafood. Apparently, it’s a poplar spot for breakfasts too.

After all the excitement of our morning, we decided to spend the rest of the day just chilling on the private beach at the Pine and Palms. Freddie played in the sand while Warren and I took turns to read. Like the night before, we all ended up in the hammock and decided we need one back at home.

That night, we took the advice from Jim (the owner’s) list of recommendations and headed across the road to the Morada Bay Beach Caf-© for the infamous sunset celebrations. Unfortunately it was closed for a private event, a wedding I think, so we drove a few miles up the road to Lorelei’s Cabana Bar, another popular sunset favourite, with a live band, a buzzy atmosphere, and a Happy Hour. We sipped half price margaritas as the sun set and Freddie temporarily swapped toys with the little boy on the next table (Buzz Lightyear for a Ninja Turtle). It was the perfect end to a memorable day.

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