TravelMole’s Silvia Gracia travels around Peru in 13 Days

History, nature and comfort are words that came up to explain why these Intrepid travellers chose the ‘Peruvian Pathways’ tour.

“I read about Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca when I was 14.” 

“I’ve  dreamt of coming ever since,” said Ole, a Swiss history teacher.

In his 50’s, he’s been travelling with his wife non-stop around the world for the past seven months.

“I thought the Amazon experience with a comfort twist would be new and different,” said Peter, a London banker.

“I’m on a round-the-world trip.” 

“Peru is so rich in history that I chose it as my South American destination,” says Xenia, a young Australian university staff.

Michael, an American TV host heard his friend’s positive feedback on an Inca themed Intrepid tour, an incentive enough to escape the hectic LA lifestyle.    

With all seven Intrepid mates arriving at the entrance point, Peru’s coastal capital of Lima, [left] they discover that once the capital of the Spanish viceroyalty in the Americas, or as conquistador Francisco Pizarro proclaimed it, ‘City of Kings’. Considered the second-largest desert city in the world, Lima has just over eight million inhabitants, with a fast and increasingly globalized metropolis.

We stroll around the streets of our hotel and find colonial architecture next to high rise sophistication, among the unexpected pre-Inca pyramids distributed around the city.

Definetely Lima’s main attraction is central historic dowtown to revive its European colonial past.

Julio, our dark handsome Peruvian Intrepid tour leader takes us to the famous Plaza de Armas [right]or main square, where stunning colonial buildings sorround an everyday groomed paved park making it the social spot for tourists, lovers, and workers to view its everycorners.

“This plaza was used as a bullring, and days later as a scaffold to execute those condemmed by the Holy Inquisition,” said Julio.

Founded by Pizarro in  1535, it was not expected that here, in 1821,  Argentinean liberator Jose de San Martin would formally procclaim Peru’s independence from Spain.

We keep walking listening to Julio’s history narration, but it’s the baroque renaissance style main Cathedral that catches the overwhelmed wandering eye.

It’s looking well conserved and restored after centuries of destructive earthquakes and tremors and inside we see beautifully carved wooden choir stalls and gold-leaf altars [right], and an exquisite collection of oil paintings and sculptures from the 17th and 18th centuries.

The Cathedral becomes a very gracious and artistic space in the eyes of the beholder, particulary first timers inside a South American colonial building.

Just make sure you take a look at Pizarro’s coffin and remains in the mosaic-covered chapel right of the main door. Really quirky.

Opposite the Cathedral lies the Presidential Palace built in 1937, and inhabited by Peruvian presidents throughout time, with a group of rigid uniformed guards [left] firmly staring across the distance……..Peter and I insist on making them move or smile with silly gestures.  We leave without luck, though and the most bizarre resemblance of the Buckingham Palace scenario.

After the guards’ noon ceremonial changing, we head a few blocks outside the Plaza de Armas to the San Francisco Monastery. Another baroque splendor with 17th century Moorish influences, including a church of Corinthian columns.

However, its most intriguing and unerving showcase are the underground catacombs or cemetary during the colony. It houses an estimated 70,000 absolutely freaky and accesible burials [right].

No one misses touching the display of boned-filed crypts, some even caress the skulls and femurs piled up in striking rings of concrete barrels.

Our last downtown stop is the nearby Plaza San Martin, the centrepoint of colonial aristocracy and French influenced architecture.

A bronze equestrian statue of Jose San Martin built in 1921 sits proudly in the middle.  While yesteryears most elegant Gran Bolivar Hotel, now faded dusty grey, is ‘the’ place to drink its reowned recipe of Pisco Sour [below]. 

This  grape brandy blended in lemon juice, and similar to the Margarita, but of a stronger and more  refreshing taste is Peru’s national cocktail.

Chileans claim its ownership, though Xenia doesn’t mind the battle as long as it keeps coming.

“Una más por favor,” she says to the waiter.

We relax in the Bolivar’s streetside bar trying to picture Lima’s olden days and ready to embark in tomorrow’s ultimate Amazon wildlife experience.

You can fly to Lima with Lan Chile via Auckland and Santiago. See www.lan.com or call 1800 221 572.

For further information on the Intrepid ‘Peruvian Pathways’, and other tours to Peru, see www.intrepidtravel.com or call 1300 364 512

Credits:

Silvia would like to thank the following for their contribution:-

PROMPERU ARCHIVE

MYLENE D’AURIOL /PROMPERU

ANIBAL SOLIMANO /PROMPERU

DOMINGO GIRIBALDI /PROMPERU

PILAR OLIVARES /PROMPERU

MANCHAMANTELES /PROMPERU

For information on Peru, see www.peru.info/perueng.asp

A Report by Silvia Garcia on location for TravelMole in Peru.