48 hours in Bordeaux?

Wednesday, 29 Jan, 2008 0

A Reuters report asks if you have 48 hours to explore Bordeaux, the wine capital of the world, then Reuters correspondents with local knowledge give tips on how to make the most out of a short stay.

World famous vineyards are a short drive away: 30 minutes to Medoc, 45 minutes to Saint Emilion and one hour to Sauternes. But if you stay in Bordeaux, you can drink some good wine, eat a sumptuous meal and marvel at centuries of civilization in the newly restored downtown area, which was included last year on UNESCO’s World Heritage Site list.

FRIDAY

6 p.m. – Take a walk through the narrow streets and quaint squares of the newly renovated historical district downtown and admire such limestone beauties as Palais Rohan (now the Town Hall) and the Grand Theatre. Bordeaux became last year the largest urban entity to be included on the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites. At 1,810 hectares, it covers half the city and 347 historic monuments — more than any other French city except Paris. The local tourism office organises special UNESCO tours (http://www.bordeaux-tourisme.com/)

8:30 p.m. – Dine at the historic Le Chapon Fin (5, Rue Montesquieu, +33 5 56 79 10 10). Founded in 1825, the restaurant was among the 33 establishments featured in the original Michelin guide. Painter Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and World War I Prime Minister Georges Clemenceau were among French personalities that used to have regular tables here. The restaurant amassed three Michelin stars before closing in 1960 and reopening in the 1980s. Try the roasted monkfish with bacon, basil and tomato dressing.

10 p.m. – Go dancing at Buzaba (Hangar 36, +33 5 56 50 40 60) a trendy lounge that features a 2,000 square metre Japanese garden.

SATURDAY

10 a.m. – Visit the Saint-Andre, Saint-Seurin and Saint-Michel churches located on the old pilgrim road to Santiago de Compostela. You’ll easily find Saint-Andre by its tall Gothic spires. Saint-Michel’s bell tower is also quite imposing. One of the tallest in France, it was built separately from the main church to protect it in case of fire.

If you visit between June and September don’t miss the Gallo-Roman crypt under the Saint-Seurin, which holds numerous relics from the sixth century.

You can check out the three churches at your own pace or you can join a guided tour from the Tourist Information Office (12, Cours du XXX Juillet, +33 5 56 00 66 00)

12:30 p.m. – Have brunch at Le Cafe du Musee (7, Rue Ferrere, +33 5 56 44 71 61). Perched on a terrace at the top floor of an 18th century warehouse now housing the Contemporary Art Museum, the Cafe is the place to see and be seen in Bordeaux on Sunday mornings.

3 p.m. – Take a wine tasting class at Ecole du Bordeaux (7, Rue du Chateau Trompette, +33 5 56 90 91 92). A fee of 75 euros ($109.9) per person will get you a crash course involving four wines. You will learn about the classification of legendary Bordeaux wines and how to rate and appreciate wine based on its colour, aroma and taste.

6 p.m. – The development of the quay is another part of the city’s renaissance to once again integrate the Garonne river into city life. The port that was once teeming with boats loading barrels of wine now receives cruise ships. As you stroll along the river, don’t miss the Miroir d’Eau (Mirror of Water), a public art piece on the quay that uses water to alternate between producing artificial fog and serving as a mirror to reflect the National Museum of Customs across the street.

8 p.m. – Bordeaux boasts a new high-tech tramway powered by an underground system instead of traditional overhead cables. Ride it across the Napoleon-built Pont de Pierre to the cosy Cafe du Port (1-2, Quai Deschamps, +33 5 56 77 81 18) on the right bank of the Garonne. The restaurant’s terrace and bay windows reveal a sweeping view of the old bridge glistening at dusk. Order the fish specialty of the day or any of the regional dishes, all made with fresh local produce.

10:30 p.m. – Check out the action at Le Mystic (5, Quai de Paludate, +33 5 56 31 63 24), a huge club in a 19th century chateau on the quay of the Garonne close to the city centre. Some nights it hosts live music performances, other nights it’s just a massive dance party.

SUNDAY

10 a.m. – Join the locals for a taste of oysters and a sip of white wine as you stroll through the Quais market on the bank of the Garonne. If you happen to visit on the first Sunday of the month you will find downtown eerily devoid of cars. During the monthly “Day Without Cars” most vehicles are banned from the heart of the city between 9 a.m. and 6 p.m. This might be a good hint to sail the Garonne instead. Various boats leave from Quai Louis XVIII.

12:30 p.m. – Relax for brunch at the homely Cafe Brocante (23, Rue du Couvent, +33 5 56 44 15 20) in Chartrons, the former wine district. This 17th century establishment is located in a wine cellar and serves as both an antique shop and restaurant. The cosy atmosphere is enhanced during winter by the 18th century fireplace, which is occasionally also used to grill a meal or two. Brunch starts at 10 euros, wine not included.

3 p.m. – Before you leave, buy a few bottles of wine at L’Intendant, a Mecca for wine connoisseurs (2 Allees de Tourny, +33 5 56 48 01 29). This wine store rises four stories on a spiral staircase, with the wines getting more and more expensive as you walk up. Its collection includes more than 15,000 bottles.

A Report by The Mole from Reuters



 

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John Alwyn-Jones



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