Bratislava: Coming into its own
When the former Czechoslovakia split into the Czech and Slovak republics in 1993, the latter seemed to get the “raw end of the deal” in many ways. For tourists, Czech capital city Prague became one the must-see cities on any European tour, leaving the urban and rural delights of Slovakia relatively untouched.
But lately, Slovakian capital city Bratislava as well as the country’s scenic countryside, from the wine-producing lowlands to the rugged beauty of the alpine Tatra Mountains, are finally being discovered by Western tourists.
And unlike the Czech Republic, where prices have skyrocketed in the last 10 years, Slovakia remains an inexpensive destination. Of course, that may gradually change if the country, a member of the European Union since 2004, replaces its currency, the crown, with the euro as planned.
A capital idea
At the western end of Slovakia just 40 miles from the Austrian capital of Vienna, Bratislava is lively and picturesque. Its historical Old Town, with many palaces, art galleries and museums, ornate churches and narrow alleyways, is bounded on the south by the Danube. The stark New Bridge over the river leads to an area crowded with towering apartment blocks, hangovers from the communist era.
The Old Town is compact and best explored on foot. A good starting point is central square Hlavne Namestie, with its central fountain, statuary, outdoor cafes and souvenir stalls.
Through a courtyard near the old Town Hall lies the Primate’s Palace and its Hall of Mirrors, where Napoleon and Austrian Emperor Franz I signed a treaty in 1805 after the Battle of Austerilitz.
Parts of the walls that once surrounded the Old Town are clearly visible, especially near St. Martin’s Cathedral. Another spot from which to espy old walls and moats is Michael’s Gate, with panoramic views from the historic tower.
Through another archway and across Hodzovo Square lies Grassalkovich Palace, now the residence of Slovakia’s president, and attractive gardens. Cultural highlights include concerts and opera or ballet performances, offered almost daily, at Reduta Palace and Slovak National Theatre, respectively.
I was fortunate enough to attend performances by the Slovak Philharmonic Orchestra and of Donizetti’s “Lucia de Lammermoor,” both captivating and high-class performances. Even better, tickets cost a fraction of what’s paid in nearby Vienna.
Many classical composers have lived and performed in Bratislava, including Mozart, Beethoven and Liszt. Composer and pianist Johann Hummel was a native of Bratislava; his tiny, dollhouse-like home, adjacent to the Primate’s Palace and city tourist office, is open to visitors.
Dominating the skyline from a position on the western edge of the Old Town and high above the Danube is Bratislava Castle. The Slovak National Parliament meets in buildings nearby, while a few kilometers farther west along the Danube, visitors can troll the ruins of Devin Castle.
Courtesy of travelweekly.com/
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