Experience traditional Zulu Culture in the heart of the Zulu Kingdom

Sanibona!

That’s Zulu for G’Day!  You will have plenty of opportunity to say this during a stay at Stewarts Farm, in the heart of the Zulu Kingdom.

Stewarts Farm, also known as Kwabhekithunga, has some significant edges over its competition, as it offers a true Zulu experience without sacrificing basic comforts, and has an ace in the deck (three aces actually!) in the form of Roy and Sonja Newlands and Nomusa Biyela.

Roy is known as the ‘White Zulu’, he spoke Zulu before learning to speak English and is immersed in all things Zulu, including their intriguing customs.  Sonja was a city girl who had travelled the world, and instantly hit it off with Roy.  Sonja is very business savvy and both are totally customer focused.  They now have a son Luke and feel totally in ‘heaven’ (which is the literal translation of the word Zulu) being part of Stewarts Farm both professionally and personally.

The Umhlabawethu Community Trust, who owns Stewarts Farm, have asked Roy and Sonja to help them operate and build Stewarts Farm into a profitable business for the community over the next ten years.

Roy and Sonja are both absolutely delighted – they are totally dedicated to their ten year mission, to uplift the local Zulu community by making Stewarts Farm a raging success before handing its operation over fully to the locals.  They take no cut for handcrafts sold in the curio shop – it all goes to the local community, and they are busy planning various upgrades & refurbs and restructuring so that the community really benefits from visitors to the farm.

Nomusa Biyela [Left] manages the day-to-day operations, and she is also highly dedicated to the cause.  Nomusa has a fascinating life story and can answer all your African & Zulu questions.  She is particularly (& gruesomely!) good at describing the use of the Zulu’s weapons of mass destruction, the short stabbing spear (around 130cm) called the ‘iklwa’ or Assegai, and the Zulu shield. Nomusa can tell you how the spear got its name!!

Nomusa is a great example of the ‘new South Africa’ and is totally focussed on making your stay a fabulous experience, simply by practicing an existing Zulu tradition that no effort should be spared when seeing to the comfort of guests.

The winner in all this is the guest!  We all know what happens when people are both enthused about what they do, are really keen to make a difference, and are continually seeking to improve their customer’s experience – everyone benefits and everyone’s business grows.  The Mole’s advice would be to form that business relationship now and reap the rewards as time goes by!  In the Mole’s opinion, this is going to become a major attraction in Zululand.

Here are just some of the reasons why:

1.      Travel back in time and stay in traditional Zulu beehive huts (OK, they are en-suite!)

2.      Visit a real, not commercialised Umuzi (Zulu Village) true to Zulu culture and traditions. It is a living village. We are talking cattle, goats, chickens & cultivation, and you can join in with the handicrafts (and dancing!)

3.      You will directly help the local community just by visiting, no middle men profit

4.      Your experience will be real, not just a ‘See Zulu village’ tick in the box

5.      The tranquil atmosphere and setting will make it very hard to leave your beehive by the pool! (unlike many other places, the Zulu village is located just out of earshot from the accommodation)

6.      The hospitality, service and attention to detail (with traditional Zulu & South African cuisine) is pretty outstanding

7.      There are direct links to Zulu history in the (see below) Nkwaleni Valley

8.      A complete Zulu cultural programme is on offer, for major insights into the heritage and culture of the Zulu nation

9.      Team Building activities suitable for 5 to 200 participants, including ‘Zulu Survivor’, ‘The Amazing Zulu Race’, ‘The Apprentice’, corporate challenges and cross golf. (Roy is Mr. Sport – he regularly gets up at ridiculous times of the morning to go race somewhere!)

10.  Independent travellers are as welcome as groups

11.  There is a conference & wedding venue at the farm

12.  ‘Winter’ is like winter on the Sunshine Coast, ie not cold!  Though May and June are considered to be the off-season, the reality is that it is a year round destination.

In addition to all this, the location of Stewarts Farm, overlooking the Nkwaleni Valley is outstanding.  From the top of the hill (a very short walk up from the accommodation) you can see where the Zulu clan originated.

The hill opposite the farm is where blacksmiths made the notorious Iklwa, and in the area are battlefields, one of King Shaka’s Military bases, and Cowards Bush, a sheer cliff where executions took place in Shaka’s time. Nearby Eshowe also featured in the Anglo-Zulu war.  

Ancestral spirits play an important role in Zulu culture, with the Isangoma (doctor) holding a revered position in Zulu society. The Isangoma’s prescriptions were typically dispensed by the Nyanga (pharmacist), the same as today, except of course the content would have been somewhat different!  The Isangoma’s diagnosis methods also involved throwing bones around…

Nomusa took me to see a ‘Mr Nzuza’ for a consultation – he is both Isangoma and Nyanga at Stewarts Farm.  Unfortunately, there was (some things never change!) a queue for the good doctor, and consultation times varied (also the same!) so the Mole never did have the bones thrown for him.

Spookily, it was the last day, and I was down to the last pair of socks, which happened to be novelty ‘Taurus’ socks someone had given me, so it was probably best I did not make it to see the doc!

Instead, we caught up with Mrs Ntombenhle Gwala, who ran a small ‘convenience store’ with some of life’s necessities such as cooking oil, washing powder and veggies!  Mrs Gwala works hard at both her shop and the land around it, where she grows a variety of herbs & veggies.

There are some fabulous contrasts on show at Stewarts Farm.  For example, a crocodile has taken up residence at the front gate as you drive in. Kids and all happily walk past in the belief that he will only attack you if you either crowd him or he is in the water looking up at two legs on the riverbank. An interesting theory I will never test.

Stewarts Farm hosts a number of school groups, like a school camp (The Mole went to Jindabyne many years ago…) which involve a mix of Zulu culture, team events and local visits to schools and a science centre.  These are usually ‘city kids’, and a continual comment when faced by Roy’s extensive knowledge of the Zulu usually goes along the lines of “But you’re a white man, we should know more than you, how do you know all about us?!”

It highlights a growing situation, where the younger more educated generation is tending to speak English as a first language and in the process, losing their cultural heritage. So it is something of a shock to them to be taught about their culture by Roy!

Roy and Sonja are also busy planning new activities and expanding the walking trails from which you can see game and lots of birdlife.  The Mole also learnt some interesting things that cross cultural boundaries. Zulus brew-your-own beer. Basically they mix maize with water and add some sorghum, leave to ferment for three days, then strain it all through a sieve, and into a large pot called a ukhamba – then its ‘Beer O’Clock’. The boys pass the ukhamba around and all is happiness!  The pots are carried around on the head, by using an inkatha (a headpiece that looks like a rope quoit) placed between the head and the bottom of the pot.

As pots seem to be carried around by the female folk, I suspect I’ve discovered the origin of the ‘Beer Wench’. Zulu men also traditionally eat off a large wooden plate called a Ugqoko using a spoon or iphini.  When the plate is empty, the man taps his Ugqoko with his iphini and ‘his woman’ immediately goes and gets him some more food.  Got it all sussed! (Apologies to Mrs Mole)

One of the staple foods is called umadumayinqueni, a white type of broadbean.  When explaining the good properties of this bean, Nomusa also had a broad smile. Apparently they are far superior to post baked-bean syndrome – very windy indeed.

So some bloke things have been going on for time immemorial: Part One – “Bring me another beer Darl”, Part Two – “Geeze I got the munchies, got any beans on toast?”, Part Three – asleep in the chair, er… musically accompanied.

But I would be doing Stewarts Farm a disservice to end this article on such a theme! The reality is that they are the place to visit for those seeking a real “African Experience”.  [Zulu Hut Accommodation right and below] In fact, many of their departing guests actually say to them “Now I really feel I’ve been to Africa!”  The Mole most wholeheartedly agrees with this sentiment.

Paradoxically, there is a place called Shakaland up the road a ways, it is the commercialised version of what is on offer at Stewarts Farm. I’m not saying its bad, it started life as the movie set for those famous Zulu movies and is definitely worth a visit.  It is a Protea Hotel and it has some great views and murals for you to admire whilst sipping an ale, or partaking of food.

But, it is much larger, with more people walking about, it is a little impersonal and definitely touristy – the opposite of Stewarts Farm.

All the accommodation has been different and unique in its own way, but Stewarts Farm is probably the closest you’ll get to travel back in time to a magical era in African History to relive traditional Zulu culture, it is personal, not touristy, the location is superb and there is as much to occupy you as you want.

Report by The Mole