Five-star luxury, but muddy boots welcome

Rachel Roberts isn’t used to such luxurious surroundings, but is made to feel right at home at Bovey Castle.

Dartmoor National Park has a special place in my heart. Its barren beauty might not be everybody’s cup of Earl Grey, but to me, it’s absolute perfection. Just one glimpse of the familiar outline of the tors that punctuate the ancient landscape in this part of North Devon makes my soul breathe out a contented sigh.

Many of the places I’ve stayed in over the years fall into the ‘rustic charm’ school of accommodation. That’s a nice way of saying that that the B&Bs, self-catering cottages and hotels have been at the more basic end of the scale.

Indulgent luxury was not something I associated with Dartmoor. But that was Bbc (Before Bovey Castle).

Before reviewing any hotel, I resist the temptation to take virtual website tours in an attempt to approach the experience with a fresh, unbiased perspective. However, the chatty taxi driver who picked me up from Newton Abbott train station (one of the nearest stops, 40 minutes from the hotel), revealed what was in store when he asked why I wasn’t arriving by helicopter. Apparently, the helipad is frequently used by rich Texan business types who come here to play golf on Bovey Castle’s renowned 18-hole championship course, which was designed in 1926 by A F Abercromby to give sister courses at Gleneagles and Turnberry a run for their money.

No matter which way you arrive, the exterior of the hotel packs the kind of visual punch which makes it worthy of its five-star rating – that’s before you’ve even stepped a tootsie inside.

The first incarnation of Bovey Castle was in the late 19th century when the WH Smith family (owners of the high street newspaper chain) built a Neo-Elizabethan-style manor. Though it has had several makeovers and additions since then – with its many gables, mullioned windows and beautiful stonework, it speaks of elegant country pursuits and landed aristocracy. To be honest, its haughty grandeur was a tad intimidating. Would I be out of my depth?

Thankfully, any anxiety evaporated on check-in. Yes, Bovey Castle is certainly grand, but not self-important – the little bundles of muddy welly boots, discarded by guests around the huge front door, quickly see to that.

Bovey Castle takes full advantage of the 275-acre estate it presides over; name any outdoor pursuit and you’ll find it here. There’s clay pigeon shooting, horse riding, archery, fly-fishing and falconry (don’t miss the free morning display by falconer Martin Whitley, an entertaining character who lives nearby and shows off his collection of stunning – and well-cared for – birds of prey including eagles Artemis and Rosie). Hell, there’s even Crolf, a hybrid of golf and cricket that was invented here. Although animal lovers might struggle a little with the hunting and shooting parties that are on (discreet) offer.

Inside, I was greeted by friendly receptionists and bell-boys dressed in natty tweed plus fours and tartan waistcoats, huge roaring fires and dramatic staircases that many a Hollywood starlet would have swept down back in the 1920s; the Castle’s heyday when it was a country lodge and celebrity hideaway.

Today, Bovey Castle is part of the Eden Hotel Collection and boasts 64 bedrooms and 14 self-contained lodges in its sprawling grounds. My Valley Castle suite was not one of the top-dollar options, but had its own wardrobe ‘room’, a super-comfy kingsize bed and an elegantly appointed bathroom. The true highlight was priceless though – throwing open the windows in the morning to see the mist hanging low over my beloved Dartmoor.

Despite not arriving by helicopter, my visit was a flying one. Though I did manage to squeeze in a relaxing face and back massage at the Sundari Spa before working up an appetite for dinner with a swim in the striking Art Deco-style swimming pool. Unlike other hotel pools, at 20m wide, this one is a decent size and allows you to make more than two breaststrokes before hitting the other side! The steam rooms and sauna were immaculate.

I dined in The Edwardian Grill, the more formal of the hotel’s two restaurants. Though huge and cavernous, the delicate hand-painted wallpaper adorning the walls and soft muted tones of the squishy velvet covering the chairs and sofas gave it a lovely, welcoming vibe.

Thanks to the effortless service offered by the dining room waiting staff, I didn’t feel remotely self conscious about dining alone – not always the case – and seized the opportunity to surreptitiously check out my fellow guests. There was definitely some discreet wealth in the room, although I fell into conversation after dinner with a couple celebrating a wedding anniversary who were chuffed to reveal they’d bagged themselves a bit of a bargain on secretescapes.com.

The dinner was first rate and the provenance of everything was to be found at the back of the menu. To start, I had scallops (from the waters off the Cornish coast) cooked to perfection, followed by Rib Eye (from a Dartmoor-reared cow) with truffled Pomme Anna and Confit Shitake, all washed down with a spicy Syrah. The only real disappointment? There wasn’t a smidgeon of space left for dessert. Ah well, maybe next time, aka Bbc (Back to Bovey Castle).

Visit boveycastle.com
Classic rooms start from £159, accommodation only.