I’m here to bust the misconception that Kruger National Park is the only place in South Africa where a close encounter with big game is possible.

I’m here to bust the misconception that Kruger National Park is the only place in South Africa where a close encounter with big game is possible.

It’s not.

On the southern edge of the Kalahari is Madikwe National Park -76,000 hectares of wilderness with every cast member from the Lion King roaming free. The park is a one-hour’s scenic flight from Johannesburg on a pocket-rocket aircraft which seats 12 passengers.

Although the plane may be small, the view from the oversized windows is massive. As it banks to the left, the scrub and distinctly African landscape is visible for miles in all directions.

Once on the dirt airstrip, the journey already has an intrepid feel. Four wheel drive vehicles with khaki-clad rangers gently transfer a handful of guests to Madikwe Lodge, run by conservation leaders, CC Africa.

The sun is warm but the beaming smile and handshake of Eddie Steyn, the lodge’s general manager, is warmer.

After a welcome drink in the open-walled lounge area which can only be described as understated luxury wrapped in an exquisite African bush décor, I’m escorted to my free-standing room which is one of only four in my ‘camp’. I thought the lounge area was impressive until I started exploring the surrounds of my room.

Oversized, with a king sized bed, open fire, inside and outside shower, deep porcelain bath tub, stone floors and thatched roof, the room is sensational.

Already I feel a part of Africa which is just as well because after five days working in Durban and another one choking in the smog of Johannesburg, I was starting to think I’d had an African bypass.

Once I’d played with all the goodies in my room including the unique “Gym in a Basket” which is a collection of fitness equipment (skipping rope, core toner, gym mat and a mess of other foreign objects I wouldn’t have a clue what to do with) I stepped on to my bush-pole terrace with a complimentary cold beer in hand.  

Outside shower – very nice, private plunge pool – even nicer, total privacy – perfect. And a killer view across the savannah – what more could I ask for?

Total privacy? Rubbish!

As I stand there on my deck, contemplating if anyone would be unfortunate enough to see me in the shower, a massive bull elephant slowly ambles past in the scrub, not four metres in front of me.

I’m speechless and indignant at the lodge’s claim of ‘total privacy’ but I figure he’s more interested in eating trees than me so I let the matter rest.

In a few long seconds, he’s off and so am I to explore his domain with my incredibly knowledgeable ranger, François.

We’ve all seen lions, hippos, giraffes, and other African creations in zoos but there is nothing like seeing them up close and personal in their own home.

And this is where Madikwe shines.

The park is vast and getting larger with an expansion program in which huge neighbouring properties are being purchased to be joined on to the national park.

It’s so huge, the boundaries are invisible. As more farms are acquired by the government and their fences are dropped, more and more land is returned to a natural setting in which conservation efforts ensure sustainability.

The savannahs, plains, mountains and river areas within Madikwe are populated with every iconic African animal you need to see. On a typical four hour game drive, herds of elephants, prides of lions, families of zebra and the occasional hippo or rhino (choose here between the affable white and the less amenable black variety) are everywhere. The one thing you don’t see however, is a traffic jam.    

In other parks which are smaller, or in more recognised ones that are larger, safari drive operators compete for the best viewing spots and as one four wheel drive leaves, another arrives. In Madikwe however, you can drive the dirt tracks for four hours without seeing another vehicle. Although there are about 60 lodges in the park, its vast size lets you get lost in private (metaphorically of course).

You can however, bump in to another vehicle at a sighting of a lion’s kill but as all the rangers communicate with each other via two-way radios, they make  sure the impact of man’s intrusion on the animals and the intrusion on fellow park guests is minimised.

Another benefit of Madikwe is that the roads are dirt, not like the bitumen ones which carve up Kruger. To be in the bush is to be on a dirt track. Bitumen belongs in the city where totally different animals abound.

The lodges within the park’s boundaries each lease a concession piece of land from the government. Madikwe Lodge’s concession is several hectares within a barrier of inconspicuous electric string which allows free-roaming access to most of the park’s animal residents except the elephants (although someone forgot to tell Dumbo who just walked past my room).

All animals are welcome around Madikwe Lodge except the elephants who have a thirsty habit of sticking their trunk into other people’s business or more correctly, their plunge pools which they can drain in a matter of seconds.

Madikwe Lodge is all inclusive -great meals, full self-serve bar, game drives and the warmest of hospitality. The solo traveller is well catered for and groups are accommodated in camps where they can enjoy exclusive use at no extra charge.

For the independent travelling couple, Madikwe Lodge is perfect. Their informal, but no less professional attitude is a delight and their attention to detail is unsurpassed. Expect several pleasant surprises in a two or three-day stay, which is the recommended length to gain maximum effect from the experience.

A Special on location report from South Africa by Kevin Moloney