In search of Tess, Jude and Thomas

Vicki Power checked into a historical hotel to get closer to one of her literary heros…

"My love of Thomas Hardy novels drew me to Dorset, and in particular Shaftesbury. Hardy set much of Tess of the D’Urbervilles and Jude the Obscure in this handsome market town that he called ‘breezy and whimsical,’ set as it is 219m above sea level and boasting impressive vistas and some steep slopes.

It was a particular thrill to book into Hardy’s fictional Duke’s Arms – in real life the newly-revamped Grosvenor Arms Hotel that dominates the town’s winding high street. Following a refurbishment to the 16-room hotel this year, under new management, there’s nothing old-fashioned about it.

A Grade II listed former coaching inn, its handsome pillars and original sash windows ooze Georgian elegance. It wasn’t too much of a leap to imagine stagecoaches barrelling up in days of yore, heading through the central archway to disgorge hot and dusty passengers in need of a rest and sustenance. Where coaches once rolled in are now modern glass doors that slide aside to invite guests in.

A faint whiff of fresh paint hit me. Renovations are still going on after the hotel was reopened in September 2013. The hotel’s bar, conservatory and restaurant have been entirely refurbished and were buzzing with locals and guests – a good sign that the refurb is paying off.

The lobby has been redecorated in muted heritage tones to show off the building’s grand original features, including a central courtyard dominated by a stone fountain. The comfortable bar has a colonial flavour – framed maps, antlers and the odd mask decorate the walls, while the furniture is modern and new. We enjoyed an aperitif while gazing at the lit-up fountain just outside the French windows.

On the opposite side is a restaurant that really makes the place. The new owners have managed to pull of the trick of making it elegant but cosy, with wooden floors, a banquette and real wood-burning pizza oven. The Italian-inspired menu features everything from pizza to local fish and game, so it will appeal to families as well as discerning diners. The young waiting staff were attentive but not intrusive.

After a fabulous three-course meal washed down with a lovely red wine, we headed upstairs to a good-sized double room whose highlight was an original sash window overlooking the high street. The decor was muted and tasteful, in various shades of taupe, from carpet to walls to fabric headboard. The enormous bed boasted Italian-made Beltrami sheets and feather pillows to ensure a happy night’s sleep, and the bathroom’s overhead shower and Orla Kiely bath products were a luxurious touch. The room was let down by the tiny television tucked high into a corner, making it good for little apart from listening to the news next morning – a large flatscreen on a chest of drawers would have had the added benefit of making the room feel less sparse.

But it’s a minor quibble about a hotel that deserves to become a highlight of any trip to this corner of Dorset, about a half hour’s drive from Salisbury and Stonehenge and an hour from the Jurassic Coast. Shaftesbury, too, is worth exploring, particularly Gold Hill, the cobbled street made famous in the 1973 Hovis advert, and for its varied selection of tea rooms and knicknack shops. So history and Hardy are good reasons to head to this attractive market town and the newly revamped Grosvenor Arms Hotel a good reason to stay.

Rooms start from £135 for a cosy double and £215 for a suite for two including breakfast.