Luxury rail

It’s the journey, not the destination  

Train travel possesses a special romance tinged with nostalgia for a bygone age. On board the Eastern & Oriental Express (E&O) the atmosphere slinks back sixty years to a rose-tinted ‘colonial’ age of linen suits and tea dances.

The Rolls Royce of trains, the E&O is a haven of style and luxury, and allows for the most romantic holiday experience in Southeast Asia that I can think of. As soon as you board the train – the exterior of which is painted in ‘British racing green’ with a white roof, and brass lettering and crest – it is clear that a way-out-of-the-ordinary experience awaits. Unlike the European-esque exterior, the inspiration for the interiors came from the East. The interior walls of the carriages have been decorated with veneers of fine, wooden marquetry, along with delicate silks, intricate brass work; the restaurant cars are of Chinese and Thai lacquer, and the bar car (which has a resident pianist) reveals Thai wall carvings and engraved mirrors. The open-deck of the observation car at the rear of the train has an Oriental theme and is designed to withstand torrential tropical downpours and strong sunlight. This is obviously the best spot to appreciate the mountains, rice paddies, and sometimes untamed, occasionally rural Thai landscape flashing past.

After boarding the train, which can accommodate 132 passengers, passengers settle into their wood-panelled compartments, where, appropriately, morning tea is served. There are three grades of compartments, but look unmistakeably first-class: the Pullman, State (larger and has two lower beds), and Presidential. All have marbled, ensuite shower rooms with Bvlgari amenities, but the exceedingly opulent Presidential Suite also offers a dressing room and complimentary bar.

Mealtimes are as civilized as one would expect on O&E: passengers are served breakfast in their compartments by cabin stewards at an agreed time, as well as early morning coffee in the observation car. At sunset, all aboard will have ‘dressed for dinner,’ and drinks flow in the bar car followed by a sumptuous, gloriously formal dinner in one of the two restaurant cars. Sample the Orient at its best as charming waiters present gourmet Asian and European dishes and fine wines in gleaming crystal and silverware.

Although there is no such thing as a typical day on board the Eastern & Oriental Express, expect to negotiate relaxed mornings, languid luncheons, an indulgent afternoon tea, and lively evenings of fine dining and lively chatter. In between all this, as you weave through the countryside, ancient temples, jungle terrain, winding rivers and sleepy villages, special excursions off the train break the rhythm of the tracks.

After lunch on the first day, disembark at Ayuthaya, where the magnificent ruins of temples, palaces and crumbling fortresses provide eloquent testimony to the former capital’s splendour. A guided tour is followed by a relaxing cruise on board a classical river barge. Sit back and watch the riverside life glide by and admire the Queen of Thailand’s Summer Palace.

The next morning, the train pulls into Chiang Mai for a sightseeing tour of the for Lanna Kingdom’s scenic attractions before returning to the E&O for lunch. The lush, mountainous scenery of the area will captivate passengers until later in the afternoon, when Lampang swings into view, one of Thailand’s most attractive, and pleasantly somnolent provincial capitals.

Traditional horse and carts with jingly bells are standing by here to trot passengers around the sites while the train is refuelled. Another night is then spent on the train; sleep comes surprisingly easily as the locomotive rattles along the tracks, the cool temperatures of northern Thailand ensuring a restful night’s slumber.

During breakfast the following day, the train approaches Burmese mountain-flanked Kanchanaburi, where passengers disembark to watch the train crossing the famous bridge over the River Kwai. Board a traditional floating barge for a leisurely cruise along the River Kwai, and admire the many splendid Thai teakwood houses. A brief visit is made to the Chung Kai Cemetery, the final resting place for thousands of Allied servicemen. Rejoin the train at Kanchanaburi with lunch served on board before arrival back in Bangkok.

With all the luxuries and comforts of a grand hotel, and a friendly, personal service that extends to the finest detail, this really is a unique way to travel. So unique, that no one is ready to alight at their final destination, not matter how enticing it may be. Unlike most forms of travel which are seen as necessary yet uncomfortably and stressful methods of getting from A to B, on O&E, it really is all about the journey.

By Ian Hambleton

Courtesy of  lifestyleandtravel.com