Bewley’s returns to its former glory
I last visited Bewley’s Cafe – Dublin’s famous coffee house in Grafton Street in about 1982 and at that time it suffered from an identity crisis and wasn’t quite sure if it was a restaurant along the lines of Hard Rock cafe or a retailer; selling more souvenir merchandise than coffee.
Either way, it suffered then from the ravages of 80’s decor but still had a particular Irish charm and I loved it.
Last night I walked up Grafton St, which is now a bustling pedestrian mall, in search of Bewley’s to see what had happened to the old girl in 25 years and she was easy to find – the aroma of freshly ground coffee grabs the nostrils and pulls you in like a horse to a stable.
There have been changes to Bewley’s – recent changes in that a complete refurbishment, which caused their doors to close for 8 months in 2005, has restored the beautiful cafe to its former glory and it has now regained its rightful place as a landmark eatery and coffee house in Dublin.
The shop front still grinds and serves some of the city’s best coffee offering a local alternative to the ubiquitous Starbucks over the road. Behind the cafe is the large restaurant, operating under the name Cafe, Bar, Deli, the walls of which are lined with mahogany panelling and patrons sit at rich velvet banquette booths or on bentwood chairs. Large crystal chandeliers hang from the high ceilings which give the room a cavernous feel.

Visitors from all over the world have come to Bewley’s for several reasons. Many just come to view the magnificent stained glass windows that line the walls. Created by Harry Clarke when the establishment was first opened, they are magnificent works of art and draw the eye compellingly.
And the food. Well it’s not traditional Irish fare anymore; the menu features a range of pizzas and pastas. All good and well within a reasonable budget. Just to remind you that you’re in the Irish capital though, one pizza has a distinct Irish touch. It features tomato, mozzarella, blue cheese and Clonakilty Black Pudding. Where else but in Dublin could you find black pudding on the pizza menu?.
Bewley’s faithful restoration has cemented its place as a “must visit” spot on your Dublin itinerary.
A Report by Kevin Moloney, international travel writer and Travel Mole correspondant – on location in Ireland – brought to you by Emirates, Aer Lingus, Driveaway Holidays and Tourism Ireland.
John Alwyn-Jones
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