Blog: Dizzy heights of Chamonix

Chamonix, one of France’s most well-known ski destinations, has existed in my imagination since I studied French almost 30 years ago. Fictional characters called Thierry or Claudette (or some-such name of Gallic extraction), who lived in the renowned ski resort, popped up in pretty much every one of my French text books, writes Rachel Roberts.

Au naturalement, Thierry or Claudette were world-class skiers, too, having almost been born with les petits skis already attached to their feet. So it was with not without some trepidation I arrived in Chamonix, in the Haute Savoie department of France, at the end of January. Would it be anything like the made-up town I’d created my head? And as a novice skier, would I be laughed off the slopes?

What took me by real surprise was how sprawling the area is. The Chamonix Valley – or Chams as regulars call it – is actually home to five ski resorts – Grands Montets, Les Houches, Le Tour/Balme, La Flégère and Le Brévent. That’s why so many snow-sports fans flock here every winter season. The area is the third most visited natural site in the world, and boasts over 118km of ski slopes, serviced by 43 ski lifts and cable cars.

A lack of snow last December spooked many, however, impacting on bookings for January and locals told us that the resorts were a little quieter than usual. Skiing isn’t a cheap pursuit; with lift passes costing around 40 euros a day, and hire around 90 euros a week, people want guaranteed dumps of the cold white stuff.

On the plus side, it meant that there were virtually no queues for the lifts and there was plenty of space on the slopes to ski (or in my case, to slip, slide and fall!) There’s also a great bus service to ferry skiers around the resorts, but we had the luxury of a car, hired in Geneva, (an hour’s drive away), to schlepp all of our gear around in.

For virtual beginners, a big advantage to Chamonix is that the ski schools move around so you’re not stuck on the same green runs every day. I plumped for ESF (Ecole de Ski Français) for three mornings and our teacher Sylvian (born and bred in the village of Argentière in the valley), had the patience of a saint. He needed it.

I can’t lie. The first two mornings were misery; my feet felt like they were clamped in a vice (now I know that boots aren’t meant to hurt that much), I struggled to do the ‘duck’ steps to get up the slightest inclination, and I was horribly conscious of being the oldest (ie unfittest) in our little group.

But then something clicked. As I slowly regained my ski legs (first found in Nendaz, Switzerland, four years ago), there was space to stop and take in the vast and beautiful scenery. Encircled by truly magnificent mountains, including Mont Blanc and the blue-white glacier of Aiguille Du Midi, I began to enjoy myself.

Judging by the many stories overheard on the shuttle bus in the mornings, of partying during ‘après ski’ – the time when people come down off the slopes and socialize, there was lots of fun being had. We stayed in the quieter area of La Praz, but there are lots of bars and clubs to choose from in Chamonix, including Elevation 1904 and Bar Du Moulin.

My daily vice was a mid-morning hot chocolate laced with amaretto (to take the edge off my poor cramping toes and calves). At nine euros a pop, I stuck to one. As with many ski resorts, you pretty much pay for the view when it comes to restaurants. My favourite view was at Grands Montets. At an altitude of just over 3000m, we tucked into burger and fries and sipped ice-cold beer for 17 euro, while gazing out across the mountains and taking in the buzzy atmosphere. The Chamonix crowd is well-heeled but not intimidating, like the more ‘blingy’ vibe of Val D’Isère can be.

Chamonix hosted the first winter Olympics in 1924 and 2015 is going to be a big year of celebration too. It’s 150 years since The Golden Age of Alpinism reached its climax – 1865 was witness to 65 first ascents by courageous climbers from all over Europe. 

And while an Olympic medal will never be mine (just ask Sylvian), our group enjoyed our own little triumph on the last day when we tackled a blue run. OK, so a tortoise could have overtaken us with ease – it took us around 30 minutes – but we did it and I left feeling as high as those majestic mountains.

Ecole de Ski de Chamonix: www.esfchamonix.com

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