Dare to indulge in Mexico City’s culinary and arts culture

Tuesday, 10 Nov, 2010 0

Latin America’s crown jewel continues to shine 

Written and Photographed By Karen Loftus

Mexico has certainly come under the line of fire in recent months with its fair share of travel warnings. However don’t let that stop you from visiting one of the most vibrant, culturally rich, diverse and historical cities in the world. It’s Mexico’s capital city, the largest city in Mexico and the America’s and the third largest city in the world by population with its 20 + million inhabitants. It is a close third only behind Seoul and Tokyo.

As is true in most cases when travel warnings are issued, always exercise caution. Step out with a New York stride and city street smart sensibilities and you will be fine. If heading in, there are a few can’t misses in this mega Mexican Metropolis.

Start your tour by checking in to the sleek and ultra-chic St. Regis, one of the tallest buildings in all of Mexico and in Latin America. Open just over a year now, it is centrally located in the Plaza of Diana the Hunter above Plaza de la Reforma, but a few minute cabride from the historic city center.

Before comingling with your 20 million Mexican neighbors, kick back and relax in this urban oasis enjoying all it has to offer. Who needs a cabana boy when you have a personal butler on call 24/7? Put the amenities to the test by getting your butler to prepare your bath or schedule a spa treatment in St. Regis’ signature spa, Remede Spa on site. Once your equilibrium is in order and jetlag released, it’s time to shake it up.

The outdoor patio overlooking the city streets is a great place to take in the urban sprawl, while sipping on your local tequila, straight up. Naturally the St. Regis has top shelf tequila brands, so you can savor the flavor.

Once inside the Diana Restaurant, the Mediterranean cuisine will tantalize the taste buds. Meals can be enjoyed with an array of local Mexican wines as well as world wines. Remember when in Mexico…. Many don’t know that Mexico, aside from its booming tequila business, actually makes some gorgeous wines. Get in to the indigenous spirit and explore the local vineyards. You’ll be glad that you did.

Once properly revived and imbibed, grab a cab or arrange a car service through the hotel concierge and head to the National Anthropological Museum. Before you look at the city’s present or future, you will be fully informed of its past and its people.

Start on the ground floor with the native cultures and societies of the Mexican people before the Spanish conquest. There are replicas of Aztec rulers and skulls of Mayan Gods. On the second floor it shows you how the descendants of the indigenous cultures are living today. Schedule at least a half day visit to fully explore the museum.

After digging through history, discover Mexico City’s more immediate past. Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivers were not only two of Mexico’s most celebrated artists; they were also two of the country’s most compelling and colorful characters worthy of cinema stories and museums in their honor.

Grab a cab to Coyoacon region of the city and head to the Blue House or Casa Azul where Frida lived as a baby when she was born and again with her beloved Diego Rivera later in life and until her death. You will recognize the art and the atmosphere if you saw the film Frida. It’s an evocative spot, sure to stir the senses.

While you’re in the mood, get your driver (if arranged by the hotel) to scoop and drop you at Museo Diego Rivera Anahuacalli, which houses Rivera’s extensive and impressive collection of prehispanic Aztec and Mayan art. There are four rooms within the museum, each representing the four forces of nature. The building, completed after his death, is a modern representation of Aztec architecture. It alone is a work of art. 

While on a Diego and Frida roll, hop a cab or grab your driver, which you can keep on call to follow you around the city, all arranged by the hotel (a very nice amenity), of course. Get off at the historical city center, Zocalo, the heartbeat of the city. It is third largest city square in the world, behind Moscow’s Red and China’s Tiananmen Square in Beijing.

Upon arrival you will be taken as it is so European in style. If you blink your eye you will feel as though you are in a major metropolis in Europe. That or perhaps Buenos Aires, another European styled city in South America. It’s easy to see how cosmopolitan Mexico City was in its day, in the sexy 50’s and since. No wonder it is forever being revitalized and re-realized by tourists and artists alike.

Continue in your Diego vein with a visit to the National Palace to see the enormous frescos done by Diego. They represent the “Epic of the Mexican People in Their Struggle for Freedom and Independence”. They are breathtaking and rich in history.

Take the time to wander as you will experience indigenous dancers in the square, religious cleansers and hawkers selling both food and trinkets. It’s a great slice of urban Mexican life.
You could and should spend hours in Zocola, hitting the many historical spots and allowing time to simply wander to let the city seduce you.

Be sure to explore Catedral, the Aztec ruins of Temple Mayor and of course Alameda Park, the perfect finish to a day of touring. There is no better window in to a city than through it’s parks. Alameda which dates back to the 16th century is filled with fountains, greenery, street entertainment and local lure.

For a foodie fix, best to find a local haunt while exploring the city or hit one of the many food markets. San Juan Mercado is a great example of one of Mexico City’s most colorful markets filled with fruits veggies, flowers, fish, poultry and meats. Not all stalls are for the faint of heart. Get ready to be taken aback and at times horrified. Vegetarians need not apply.

For a local bit of bohemia head to Condesa an arty, intellectual and edgy neighborhood developed in the 20’s. Today it remains one of the best representations of Art Nouveau and Art Deco in the world. Check out the Panaderia and the Condesa buildings or simply grab a drink, a café or a bite at one of the many restaurants or bars in this inspired neighborhood.

For late night libations, be sure to squeeze in that disco nap before heading out as Mexico City like many European cities doesn’t kick its high heels up until late at night. Many locals are just heading out at midnight or later to start the evening’s events. Check with the concierge as there are a number of small to large establishments from cocktail bars to clubs for dancing, music and or ambiance.

It will be hard to adjust to life back in New York without your own on call butler boy and car service, but you’ll manage.

Hitching a Ride – There’s an excellent public transport in place in the city that is easy and cheap. Cabs are also available and reasonably priced if shared. Final option is of course the car service, which can be arranged by your butler at the St. Regis if you’re feeling the need to exercise your Eloise.

Urban Castles – The St. Regis is one of the chicest retreats in the city. If you don’t stay at the hotel be sure to slip in for a libation at the King Cole Bar, which is styled in a James Bond meets Mexico motif. It’s super sexy and the cocktails are intoxicating and very innovative. The hours will slip away in this sexy urban outpost. www.stregis.com/mexicocity

Disclosure – This article is the sole opinion of the traveler and writer who wrote it and experienced it.

FYI – No one was harmed in the writing of this article.

You can follow Karen Loftus on her many jaunts and adventures on The Global Road on Facebook and on Twitter: @LAKarenLoftus



 

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Karen



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