Great little resorts: Plan Peisey

Saturday, 25 Jan, 2019 0

Bev Fearis spent a week in a Skibeat chalet at Plan Peisey in the Tarentaise Valley in the French Alps, nestled between the ski areas of Les Arcs, Peisey-Vallandry and La Plagne, known collectively as Paradiski.

In a nutshell: All the charm of a small ski resort but with direct access to Paradiski, the second largest ski area in the world. It’s right next to the super speedy, double decker Vanoise Express cable-car which crosses the valley between Les Arcs and La Plagne. 

Why your clients should go: The skiing here rivals the likes of Meribel and Courchevel in the Trois Vallées but without such a high price tag. Plan Peisey has a great snow record too, and if the snow doesn’t play ball (excuse the pun) there are also excellent snow-making machines. 

Who will it suit: Most of the accommodation here is in chalets, so the resort is best suited to families or groups. The après ski is low key, so it’s not for those who want to party, but there are still some cosy bars, excellent village and mountain restaurants and a good selection of shops selling local delicacies.

What to see and do: Of course, skiing and snowboarding are what most people come for and there are pistes here for all abilities. Although beginners might be concerned by the lack of green slopes, there are some nice wide and gentle blues to practice your snowplough. Even the blacks aren’t too difficult if the conditions are right. Keep away from the big Les Arcs and La Plagne villages and lift queues are rare. The lift system works very efficiently and some lifts even have heated seats.

For kids: Little ones will love the Foret Pitchouns where they can ring bells in the trees as they ski pass. You should also take them to Le Monde Magique de Montalbert, on La Plagne side, a cute trail where the children can take a gentle path through the trees lined with charming wooden statues of fairies, dragons, witches, bears and other fairytale figures, which come to life as you pass. The bears grumble, the fairies twinkle and sing and the dragons roar.

For non-skiers: Take the bucket lift, otherwise known as the ‘lobster pots’, down to the old village of Peisey and jump on the free bus (10 minutes) to the Centre Nordique de Pont Baudin, which could well be in Lapland with its well-marked trails for cross-country skiing, snow-shoe walking, and hiking. Families can also take a sledge ride with reindeer, dogs or horses.

What to eat and drink: For live music and a friendly atmosphere, head to Bar Mojo in neighbouring Peisey Vallandry, a laidback locals bar that’s relaxed enough to take the children for an early evening drink. Nextdoor is L’Adress, a modern but cosy restaurant recommended to us by our lovely, in-the-know Skibeat chalet hosts, Carol and Tony. It didn’t disappoint, with a mean burger, tasty pizzas and tip top service. For a livelier night out with mainly British seasonaires try the Mont Blanc bar, where you can also watch sporting events and play pool. On the other side of the resort, by the ski lifts, is La Vache, a popular bar where Skibeat often holds a fun Quiz Night where its chalet guests compete against each other. The mountains are scattered with chalet-style restaurants and prices are relatively reasonable, for example €8 for an ‘assiete de frites’. The best hot chocolate, by far, is from Le Solliet, a cosy mountain restaurant in Villaroger, Arc 2000, on the other side of the Les Arcs ski area. It’s worth the trek.

Where to sleep: Brighton-based Skibeat has 11 carefully-chosen chalets in the resort and more in the bigger resorts in the Paradiski area. They’re all close to the ski lifts and the Vanoise Express. The closest are Chalet Gentiane and Chalet Fleur de Neige. There’s also a Club Med.

Most instagrammable spot: From the new viewing footbridge at the Aiguille Rouge glacier. You’ll want to take a panoramic shot here too. Or, looking down from the Vanoise Express as it whizzes across the valley. The lower deck of the cable car has a window on the floor for valley views  – but don’t look down if you suffer with vertigo!

Do: Pop into the Village Igloo to explore the ice cave, igloo bar, bedrooms, dining areas and a dance floor area. There’s a small charge but you get in once for free with a six-day ski pass.

Don’t: Miss the last cable car back from La Plagne at 4pm. If you do, it’s a long and expensive taxi ride back down into the valley and up again.

Top Tip: Get a full Paradiski pass for access to the whole ski area, but also fast track on all of the lifts, which can be very useful for families, especially in the school holidays.



 

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Bev

Editor in chief Bev Fearis has been a travel journalist for 25 years. She started her career at Travel Weekly, where she became deputy news editor, before joining Business Traveller as deputy editor and launching the magazine’s website. She has also written travel features, news and expert comment for the Guardian, Observer, Times, Telegraph, Boundless and other consumer titles and was named one of the top 50 UK travel journalists by the Press Gazette.



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