Guest columnist: Don Kiselewski on the historical French town of Honfleur

The town of Honfleur, at the mid-point on the English Channel side of the hexagon that shapes France, arguably is one of the most picturesque sea ports in all of Europe. Located in the Calvados district of the Normandy area of France, Honfleur has served as an active port since the 11th century. Because the port is one of the closest to England, with water access into the center of France, it became a ping pong ball during the Hundred Year War from 1337-1453. The last period of English occupation was from 1418 to 1450.

The period between the 16th and 19th centuries brought prosperity to the town, because of trade with North America and the East Indies. The town also served as a point of departure for many trips of exploration. I’m sure that most Canadians know, it was from Honfleur, that the explorer, Samuel de Champlain, started a voyage of discovery. In 1608, Champlain sailed to Canada, and founded the French Colony of New France (Quebec).

Nestling amongst green hills, Honfleur stands on low ground between the tidal estuary of the Seine and the "Plateau du Pay d’Auge". It is here that the Seine cuts the coastline, and continues eastward, upstream, to the heart of France. Across the estuary lies the port city of La Havre. Over the last century, La Havre has gained most of the shipping business because, it is the north side of the Seine, which doesn’t silt up, like the south, and allows deeper draft vessels access.

This lessening in importance, as a port, served as an advantage to Honfleur. Because of its relative un-importance, it was not bombed and was saved from total destruction that came to La Havre, its sister town across the Seine, during the Second World War. Le Havre was flattened because of the continued bombing, and today has been rebuilt in concrete, glass and steel, giving it a cold, lackluster appearance. Le Havre, has again outgrown the little town of Honfleur, however, the old Norman town, has managed to keep intact its charm of yesteryear. Only a few years ago, the two port areas, at the mouth of the Seine, were joined by a magnificent cable bridge across the estuary.

There are less than 10,000 inhabitants of this quaint village, including the tourists, which descend on the area in the summer. Most admirable is the way that the town has retained the character of the periods in which it was built. All of the newer construction (last two centuries) has been well hidden behind, and out of the view, leaving the pristine murals that have inspired so many artists over the centuries. Even today, artists flock to capture the buildings, harbors and most importantly the feeling of Honfleur.

Honfleur was "the treasure of the artist," when Eugene Boudin discovered the tiny harbor village, and gathered around him the notables of the artist community. In the 1870’s, it was here in Honfleur that the impressionist style of painting was created. The style is characterized by the bold use of unmixed primary colors and small strokes to simulate actual reflected light. Probably, the most recognizable of artist of the era, which contained such notable as Bubourg, Dufy, Friesz and Gernez, was Claude Monet. Many of his scenes were captured here in Honfleur, and the northern bank of the Seine. The Eugene Baudin museum in Honfleur, has a wonderful collection of these painters, as well as Normandy ethnography (head-wear, dress & furniture)

There is nothing that matches the feeling one gets, strolling through the narrow streets where each turn creates a vision of times past. Half timber construction centuries old, with wood and wrought iron trim set the true character of Honfleur. The ominous entrance to the old jail and the stone walls of the salt house are incomparable. The Greniers a Sel (salt storage house) was built in the 17th Century, with stones from the old rampart. The magnificent wood roofs once protected 10,000 tons of salt, but now shelter concerts and exhibitions.

Cafe’s and art galleries, in stone and half timber buildings, cluster around the small harbor, where nets hang out to dry. The "Lieutenance," the fortified gate to the town, stands at the entrance to the inner harbor. Just up the hill is the Eglise Ste-Catherine, Frances oldest and largest wooden church. It was constructed by shipwrights with the skills they had in the late 15th century. To put it in prospective, about the time that Columbus sailed to America, the roof of the building was being completed in the shape of an upside down boat hull. Because of limited technical knowledge, the nave of the church was built from two hulls, placed side by side. Today, the twin altered church with columns down the center, creating split naves, is unique.

Across the street is the bell tower for the church which grew up from the interior of the bell ringer’s dwelling. The fifteenth century tower is still spires high over the town it has watched for the last 500 years.

Within a 50 mile radius of Honfleur lie historic sites, which also should be included in an itinerary. Cean, located somewhat inland, west of Honfleur was the city at the center city behind the beaches at Normandy during WWII. Still further west, some 150 meters above the waves, lies Mont-St-Michel, the subject of so many photos of the monastery, fortified by the tides of the sea. Between the two, lies Falaise Castle, which has stood over the valley since 1027, here William the Conqueror was born. Traveling east, toward Paris from Honfleur is the city of Rouen. It is here that a 19-year old French girl, Jeanne D’Arc who rallied the French and defeated the British in Orleans, was burned at the stake in the city square. She was canonized in 1920, 464 years later.

So much history, beauty and character permeate the Normandy area of France. One finds the locals happy, concerned and interested in others, which is a complete reversal from the attitude of the big cities.

If you even get close, don’t miss the opportunity to visit Honfleur and the Normandy area of France. It is guaranteed to rekindle your imagination of times past, and create a new perspective on the generations of people who have lived here, and those that still continue to do so, in this beautiful part of the world.

Don Kiselewski, a world traveler, writes from his personal experience having traveled in 122 countries. His family owned full service agency, Palm Beach Gardens, Florida TRAVEL LEADERS, has served residents of the Palm Beach area for over 22 years.