Oahu’s Legendary Destination: the North Shore
The journey to the North Shore begins with a 60-minute drive from the Honolulu International Airport: a scenic feast of lush valley gulches, fields of pineapple, coffee groves and the fortress-like Waianae mountain range. Just past Dole Plantation and the world’s largest maze, the road begins its descent toward the ocean and beaches jump into sight in the distance. As you approach sea level, the North Shore’s “biggest-little-town†of Haleiwa signals your arrival.
Haleiwa
The town of Haleiwa translates to “home of the frigate bird†and was first established by Protestant missionaries, Reverend John Emerson and wife Ursula Sophia, at Waialua Bay in 1832. The Emerson’s Queen Liliuokalani Church still stands, as does the structure of their original adobe home, located across from Matsumoto’s Shave Ice. Queen Liliuokalani, who had her choice of locations on Oahu, chose Haleiwa as her special place for bathing and retreats from the Royal Palace. In 1899, the development of the Haleiwa Hotel and the extension of the Oahu Railroad led to a growth in Haleiwa’s business community. More and more businesses were set up in front of family buildings with living quarters in the back. The half-day trip by train was considered long, and kept the small plantation town a quiet getaway.
In 1984, Haleiwa was designated a State Historic, Cultural and Scenic District. It is also part of America’s Main Street program for historic preservation and economic vitalization. A worthwhile destination in itself, Haleiwa beckons travelers to see all that it has to offer: history, unique shops, white sand beaches, surf, ocean sports and a variety of eateries.
Waimea Bay To Turtle Bay
Waimea Bay Beach Park, an idyllic bay beach, heralds the start of the most famous stretch of the North Shore, extending to the peninsula at Turtle Bay Resort. Ironwood groves and tropical countryside ensconce some of the world’s finest white-sand beaches and surf breaks on this unspoiled coast. Sunset Beach, Banzai Pipeline, Ehukai and Three Tables are just a few of the legendary spots. In the winter, waves of 30 feet or more break offshore. Roadside fruit stands and quaint local vendors line the main artery of Kamehameha Highway. From December to April, humpback whales can be spotted from each Turtle Bay Resort guestroom lanai as they make their annual migration from the North.
Beyond Turtle Bay
Minutes away from the resort is the historic sugar plantation town of Kahuku. For eight decades, sugar was the livelihood for the Portuguese, Japanese and Filipino immigrants who came to Oahu to work the plantation. Kahuku is also home to the 42-acre Polynesian Cultural Center, which has an IMAX theater and three restaurants in addition to its famous interactive experience of village life in Hawaii, Tahiti, Tonga, New Zealand, the Marquesas, Fiji and Samoa.
Nearby in Kaaawa Valley is Kualoa Ranch, a 4,000-acre working ranch offering a variety of outdoor activities, educational programs, and scenic tours. The valley and Kuuloa Beach Park have provided the backdrop for several movies including Along Came Polly starring Jennifer Aniston and Ben Stiller and Windtalkers starring Nicolas Cage.
North Shore Beaches
Kuilima Cove – A sandy inlet at the Turtle Bay Resort. One of the best swimming and snorkeling areas on the North Shore.
Kawela Bay – A picture perfect and uncrowded sandy beach. A hidden treasure with safe swimming year round. Public access only from the ocean or a short hike from Turtle Bay Resort.
Sunset Beach – Site of professional surfing contests in the winter where surf occasionally reaches heights of 20 feet or more.
Ehukai Beach – Best view of the famous “Banzai Pipeline†– see surfers disappear inside the barrel of a wave and emerge seconds later. Also a site for professional body boarding contests in the winter.
Pupukea Beach Park – Beautiful cove and tidal pools in a marine reserve.
Shark’s Cove – Explore the knee-deep tide pools and the wonders of snorkeling the cove, which is named for its shape and not its inhabitants.
Waimea Bay – The largest surfable waves in the world – 30 or more feet waves are not uncommon during winter months. In the summer months, swimming is ideal in the bay’s calm turquoise waters.
* Always observe posted warning signs regarding swimming conditions at each beach.
Points of Interest
Puu O Mahuka Heiau – Oahu’s largest heiau (sacred place of ceremony) – a historic landmark. Spectacular view of the North Shore.
Waimea Valley Audubon Center – A historic nature park on 1,800 acres. In addition to a heiau, there are over 5,000 species of documented tropical plants, a 45-foot waterfall, swimming, hiking trails, agricultural terraces and living sites, and a bird sanctuary.
Haleiwa Town – Old general stores co-exist with modern boutiques, art galleries and eateries. Haleiwa is home to the largest marina on the North Shore.
Eateries
Matsumoto’s Shave Ice – Established in 1951, Matsumoto’s Shave Ice serves “snow cones†in a variety of flavors such as pineapple, coconut, Li Hing, watermelon, lychee and banana. For a different twist, customers are encouraged to try their shave ice with ice cream or azuki beans or both. The store also sells souvenirs and snacks. Famous visitors include actor Tom Hanks, figure ice skater Kristi Yamaguchi, and retired Japanese sumo wrestler, Konishiki.
Address: 66-087 Kamehameha Hwy., Haleiwa
Phone: (808) 637-4827
Hours: 8:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., daily
Ted’s Bakery – Famous for their chocolate-haupia (coconut) pie, this low-key Sunset Beach store bakery also has take-out strawberry cream and “mocca†cream pie (whole or by the slice), éclairs, cinnamon rolls and soft drinks for beachside snacking.
Address: 59-024 Kamehameha Hwy., Haleiwa
Phone: (808) 638-8207
Hours: 7 a.m. to 6 p.m., daily
Kua‘Aina Sandwich Shop – Celebrated for serving the best burgers on the North Shore – including avocado burgers, pineapple burgers and garden burgers – Kua‘Aina Sandwich Shop has been open in Haleiwa since 1975 and has grown to 13 locations, including 11 restaurants in Japan and one location scheduled to open in West Hollywood, CA.
Address: 66-160 Kamehameha Hwy. Haleiwa
Phone: (808) 637-6067
Hours: 8 a.m. to 11 p.m., daily
Romy’s Shrimp – This is a quaint “shrimp shack†that is run by a father (Romy Aguinaldo) and daughter (Kaylene Arneson) who raise their own shrimp. This is the only shrimp stand that grows and prepares the shrimp; and it is located right at the shrimp farm itself. Look for the red shrimp stand on the right side of the road on the way to Turtle Bay.
Address: 56-781 Kamehameha Hwy
Phone: (808) 232-2202
Hours: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., daily
Other activities
For locally grown plants, fresh produce, and handmade arts and crafts, visit the North Shore Country Market on Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. at Sunset Beach Elementary School; or the Waialua Farmers’ Market on Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and near New Waialua Coffee Visitor’s Center.
Stop at one of the many roadside vendors to sample local delicacies, from fresh pineapple to cold coconuts to Kahuku sweet corn.
From Nov. through Dec., catch the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing contest series, which is the longest standing and most successful professional surfing series in the world.
The Annual Haleiwa Arts Festival is held every summer and serves as a primary advocate for the promotion and development of fine arts and cultural programs on the North Shore of Oahu (www.haleiwaartsfestival.org).
Located on the North Shore of Oahu, the 880-acre Turtle Bay Resort is operated by Benchmark Hospitality International and is a Preferred Hotels® & Resorts Worldwide property – a collection of the world’s finest independent luxury hotels.
Famous for world-class surfing, pristine white sand beaches, and its charming country setting, the North Shore also offers colorful cultural attractions, innovative ecological endeavors, and environmental adventures.
Chitra Mogul
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