Portes du Soleil: One of the snowiest areas of the Alps

With unseasonally warm, dry weather across the Alps this month it’s best to check the snow report before booking any last-minute ski trips as a lot of resorts are suffering from patchy coverage. Indeed, many are depending on man-made snow to keep runs open, which has resulted in less than ideal conditions.

In France, the Portes du Soleil has enjoyed some of the highest snowfall across the Alps since the start of the month, with more than 90 cms falling just before I arrived last week. Although much of it quickly turned to slush on the lower slopes due to temperatures which topped 8°C on some days, the good news is there has been more snow there this week and the area is well covered by snow canons to top up the natural stuff.

The highest slopes currently have about 160 cms of snow, which is more than many European resorts right now and as much as Val Thorens, which sits at a much higher altitude.

The Portes du Soleil consists of 12 linked resorts – eight in France and four in Switzerland. Two of the best-known to British skiers are the French resorts of Les Gets and Morzine, both of which are traditional villages which are very popular with families – and it’s easy to see why.

Both have a good selection of quality three and four star hotels, many of which are within a short stagger of the slopes so there’s no need for little ones to walk far in ski boots. Most are still family run and in typical Alpine style, but with plush, modern facilities.

Less well-known, in the UK at least, is the smaller village of Châtel, which has, in my opinion, some of the best skiing in the area, more of which I’ll mention later.

It’s possible to ski between all 12 resorts in the Portes du Soleil, which boasts over 600 kms of runs, so you can have breakfast in France, ski to Switzerland for lunch and be back in France in time for the après ski.  Each ski resort has a local lift pass or visitors can buy a single pass to cover the whole of the Portes du Soleil area.

Much of the skiing here is suited to beginners and intermediates, with lots of wide, fairly gentle runs, ideal for those who love cruising and soaking up the 360 degree views. The toughest run is a steep, 1km long mogulled descent above Les Crosets on the Swiss France border, known to the English as The Swiss Wall, which is a bit of a knee trembler for all but the most experienced skiers.

One of the great attractions of the Portes du Soleil, however, is its easily accessible off-piste terrain. Now since ex-racing driver Michael Shumacher’s tragic accident while skiing last month, and following the unusually high number of fatal avalanches in Europe so far this winter, many clients will be understandably nervous about straying from the marked runs, but for those who do want to venture off-piste, the Portes du Soleil is ideal.

The best area for off-piste is in Châtel.  An area known as the Happy Valley, which is easy to reach straight from the village via the Pré la Joux lift, provides oodles of unpisted runs where, according to Olivier, a local instructor from the French ski school ESF, it’s relatively safe to ski without a guide and as the slopes aren’t too steep it’s not essential to carry avalanche equipment.

"It’s best to go there with an instructor the first time, because there are some hidden crevaces, but once you know the area there’s no need for a guide, " he said. "The runs aren’t too steep so there is little risk of an avalanche. Skiers love playing around in there, it’s great fun."

So where should you recommend clients stay to make the most of the Portes du Soleil?

All three resorts, Les Gets, Morzine and Châtel are great for families and Super Châtel has a good beginners’ area.

Morzine, being larger than the others, has probably the most appeal for teenagers and twenty or thirtysomethings. A new lift at Pleney has doubled the speed at which skiers can get on to the slopes and should ease queues in peak season.

All three resorts have some charming, local hotels. I stayed at the three-star Alpina in Les Gets, from where I had a lovely view of the slopes from my private balcony and from the small indoor pool. The hotel also boasts a hot tub, a sauna, a sunny bar and a large restaurant where a stupendous buffet breakfast is laid out in the mornings.

The resort is quiet in the evenings but the outdoor Aprèsski bar at the foot of the slopes was still buzzing after 7pm and there is a smattering of restaurants for those who don’t want to eat in their hotel or chalet. I can highly recommend La Fruitière des Perrières, situated in an old cheese dairy, especially if you like fondue.

In Morzine I spent a comfortable night at L’Equipe, conveniently located bang next to the Pleney lift but my favourite hotel was the Macchi, the only four-star hotel in Châtel, which has an Indian-inspired spa providing skiers with much-needed massages when they return from the slopes. Bliss.

*The Portes du Soleil will host its annual Rock the Pistes music Festival from March 26 to 30, with free lunchtime gigs on the slopes. This year’s line-up includes Babyshambles, Klaxons, Breton and Mad Professor.