Seduced by the charms of Relais and Chateaux

Rachel Roberts feels like she’s stepped into a bygone era at the Mallory Court Hotel, but is puzzled by something next to her bed…

It took us a little while to work out the exact purpose of the mini mats on either side of the bed in our elegantly appointed room. Where’s a butler called Jeeves (or some-such) when a girl needs him to explain etiquette?

We were left to employ our best powers of deduction to work out that they were bathmats in reverse, there to wipe the day’s dust and cares away from one’s feet before sliding between the crisp white sheets and drifting off to the land of Nod.

Mallory Court Hotel, a stone’s throw from Leamington Spa, is that kind of place. It’s a place lifted straight off the pages of a PG Wodehouse novel, where every comfort a guest may desire – however whimsical – is met.

"Pah! What a pointless, indulgent waste of time," was my first reaction to the silly frippery. But here’s the funny thing: less than 24 hours later, I was actually in love with that rectangle of bliss (hello, marshmallow-y softness, my old friend), and buying one for ‘real life’ was under serious consideration.

Luxury is seductive, and Mallory Court – a long-standing member of the Relais and Chateaux Group and one of the top 200 hotels in the UK – starts to woo guests unashamedly from the moment they arrive. The sweeping driveway deposits you in front of the hotel’s handsome exterior; all mullioned windows, criss-crossed with lead, stone gables and lush green ivy.

It’s somewhat surprising to learn that the building wasn’t built during Elizabethan times but during the First World War. Creator P Morley looked to the romantic buildings of Sir Edwin Lutyens, one of the Elizabethan period’s most famous architects, when he drew up his plans.

Stepping inside the country house hotel feels a little like stepping back in time to a more elegant, sophisticated era. There’s a heavy Art Deco influence throughout, but it’s not overwrought.

Our master bedroom in the East Wing (one of 20 in the main house) was delightful. Mallory Court does a roaring trade in weddings and hosts receptions in the Knights Suite. This modern annexe in the grounds also boasts 11 bedrooms so guests can party till they drop without disturbing others in the hotel.

I’m actually puzzled why our room isn’t described as a suite – we were spoiled with a private entrance lobby, plus a separate toilet and bathroom. Original Art Deco fittings have been lovingly restored in all of the bathrooms in the main hotel.

Ours was a soothing mix of burgundy, cream and gold, and there were generous supplies of L’Occitane products, to wash one’s tootsies with before stepping onto the bedside mat, presumably.

The highlight, though, was the view of the gardens. We ordered tea (delivered in quick-smart fashion) and sipped it at our Regency-style table while drinking in the immaculately manicured grounds and day dreaming. What would it have been like to live here as lady of the manor, wafting around and being waited on by a butler called Jeeves?

We hung onto the illusion by taking a pre-dinner stroll around the immaculately manicured grounds. The hotel is set in 10 acres of land and we were particularly enchanted by the kitchen gardens. Far from being work-a-day, great care and imagination have been poured into the large plot. We spotted strawberries and purple-sprouting broccoli, while the gorgeous scents of rosemary, fresh mint and basil hung in the early evening air.

Appetites piqued, we relaxed with an aperitif in the gorgeous lounge, which has been recently refurbished in a palette of charcoal greys, warm creams and royal blues. We were already excited about dinner; Mallory Court boasts a coveted Michelin star and three AA Rosettes.

And the food – British Modern – didn’t disappoint. Swerving the seven-course tasting menu, we plumped for the – la Carte, sharing courses to experience as many taste sensations as possible. Most exquisite was the Roast Lamb Saddle, yoghurt, cabbage and celeriac. My mouth is watering as I type.

The service deserves a special mention. It was seamless, a fallen napkin silently replaced on the table, wine replenished at exactly the right moment. The staff seemed to want to go the extra mile, not just going through the motions until the end of a shift.

Checking out the following morning after a lazy breakfast, we told the super-smiley receptionist how much we’d enjoyed our stay. She confided that the hotel used to have four AA Rosettes and the team are committed to regaining it as quickly as possible. Judging by the high quality of our experience, they’ll have it back in no time. Though I’ve yet to buy that bedside mat.

Rooms start at £159 for a Standard, £225 for a Classic.