TravelMole’s Silvia Garcia on location in Peru

The Intrepid ‘Peruvian Pathways’ tour pack is a must-see in only 13 days, with travellers seeing the rich contrasts of the coast, highland and jungle visiting the main cities: Lima, Puerto Maldonado, Cuzco, and Puno.

A tour that suits the luxury enthusiast in search of the Indiana Jones experience, or the simple packer with an open mind for comfort.

History, nature and comfort are words that came up to explain why these Intrepid travellers chose the ‘Peruvian Pathways’ tour.

“I read about Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca when I was 14.  I’ve  dreamt of coming ever since,” said Ole, a Swiss history teacher. In his 50’s, he’s been travelling with his wife non-stop around the world for the past seven months.

“I thought the Amazon experience with a comfort twist would be new and different,” said Peter, a London banker.

“I’m on a round-the-world trip. Peru is so rich in history that I chose it as my South American destination,” says Xenia, a young Australian university staff.

Whereas Michael, an American TV host heard his friend’s positive feedback on an Inca themed Intrepid tour, an incentive enough to escape the hectic LA lifestyle.           

Hot muggy winds slap us on the face as soon as we step off the plane. The dramatic temperature change accentuates Xenia’s Scandinavian looks, as she lathers her  rosie cheeks in sunblock. “Welcome to Puerto Maldonado and don’t panic, it will be cooler in the afternoon,” says John, our host. This small dusty ramshackle jungle town nearing the Brazilian and Bolivian borders is mainly accessible by plane from Lima, though hard to get to by land. However, its vast unspoilt lowland jungle territory is far more accesible than other Amazon locales. It’s situated in the southern area of the Amazon Basin, a port at the conjuction of the Madre de Dios and Tambopata rivers. The Peruvian Amazon comprises 50% of the country, but only 5% of Peruvians live here.

A growing toursim region still significantly unaccessible due the Government’s flora and fauna protection, it’s an ideal destination for the basic or luxury eco-traveller. There are beautiful and comfortable accomodation options along both rivers. Wearing life vests and luggage thrown into the boat, without hesitation, we stream 45 minutes along the Madre de Dios to disembark into the wooden pathway of our bungalow retreat.

“Hola, hola, hola..” echoes Pepe, the stunning red macaw. [left]

Ricardo, the hotel’s all- rounder awaits with glasses of  icy passionfruit juice to combat the heat, later escorting us to our upbeat conical thatched roof bungalows.

Every inch of this wooden low-impact architecture is in traditional style. The toilet, sink and shower are to some extent made of wood, except the eyecathcing Shipibo (indigineous group of the region) wall art and quilts, besides the obvious mosquito net hanging on top of the bed.

After a cool rest on the hamcock, John calls us for a night river cruise to spot black caimans. We stream up and down the Madre de Dios for 30 minutes, dipping our fingers into the water like hyperactive kids, waiting anxiously for those red underwater glowing eyes to pop up. “This is the first time in 15 years that a group of mine fails to see at least one,” says John,  as we head back to land crestfallen. On the bright side, we spot a capybara, the largest living rodent in the world. Quitely feeding on grass, it’s cunning short head and heavy barrel-shaped body, with reddish-brown fur is 3 ft long, weighing around 50 kilos. Absolutely gracious.

Now patience is needed for our 5am guacamayo photo shoot, [left] coming in flocks to the lodge’s nearby salt lick. From a quiet hidden observatory we capture their bright green feathers, feeding on the mineral-laden clay essential for their organisms. 

I am so amused obeserving with my binoculars that with the sudden loud approach of  a tour group and Peter’s uncontrollable sneeze they escape!

Our next nature and trekking expedition is to Lake Sandoval. Lathered in sunscreen and repellent, wearing long rubber boots we begin a 5 km jungle trek accompanied by French tourists and young German volunteers.  T

he atmosphere is sticky, with mosquitos preying on our skin, though the jungle’s fresh smell is liberating,  and the untamed wilderness thrilling. Leaning on our walking sticks, along the muddy trail we stop to admire frogs and lizards of bright green and yellow hues hiding in lushes palm trees, as well as spectacular orchids, while listening to the sounds of the almost extinct Marvelous Spatuletail. The sun is killing the tired some, though the few unidentified roars, possibly a scant 20 metres away jaguar, is what keeps us going.

Almost two hours later, we arrive starving at the lake and picnic around its swimmable area.

Juan treats us to the Amazonian dish ‘juanes’ (rice dough stuffed with cooked chicken and wrapped in banana leaves), Michael calling it the Peruvian risotto minus the cheese.

Happy we made it, we plunge into the warm waters for a swim. Then on a boat we navigate for 1½ hours to experience the Amazon wildlife, watching unique species.

We meet a family of Brown Capuchin monkeys [left] high up in a palm tree. In hiding, the mother carrying the baby on her back is amused by our presence. Below there’s a shy group of  Taricaya tortoises diving back into the water.

Further up the lake we spot fruit bats clinging onto balsa trees, while a nearby group of ducks pose for the camera [right] on top of wooden logs floating downstream.

Suddenly, the pre-historic birds Hoatzins, throw their harsh monotonous call to the unexpected appearence of a black caiman on shore and swimming in our direction, causing a stir among all. Finally, we fish a few pirahnas, with Michael almost loosing a finger tip.

Back at the lodge, a pretty toucan bathing under a leaking tap is excited to see us, letting Peter and I gently pat him. We reward our nature expedition with a few drinks at the bar. After a heated game of pool, it’s time to call it a day.

Next on the Intrepid agenda is Cusco.

Getting there

Fly to Lima with Lan Chile via Auckland and Santiago. See www.lan.com or call 1800 221 572.

For further information on the Intrepid ‘Peruvian Pathways’, and other tours to Peru, see www.intrepidtravel.com or call 1300 364 512

For information on Peru, see www.peru.info/perueng.asp 

A Report by TravelMole’s Silvia Garcia on location in Peru