Under the radar Japan: Nasu Highlands

Located just over an hour east of Tokyo by shinkansen bullet train, Nasu Highlands is a picturesque region known for its natural beauty, onsen (hot springs) and variety of outdoor offerings.

Loved by locals, the region – which includes Nasu Town, Nasushiobara city and Otawara city – is the perfect getaway for those looking for respite from the busy city life.

From cycling along tree-lined roads and through agricultural towns to immersing in one of the oldest onsens in the Tochigi Prefecture, here is an itinerary to experience the best of this lesser-travelled destination.

Nasu Heisei no Mori Forest

Opened to the public in 2011 as part of the Nikko National Park, the Nasu Heisei no Mori forest occupies nearly half of what was once the Nasu Imperial Villa estate. The land, which was previously reserved for the Imperial Family’s use, spans about 560 hectares and is now a protected environment, home to a thriving ecosystem of flora and fauna, and a documented 3,492 wildlife species. This includes 23 previously unknown species and 25 recorded in Japan for the first time.

Emperor Akihito’s hopes for everyone to have unrestricted access to Nasu’s natural environment paved the way for the development of the forest’s two zones – the ‘Forest Recreation Zone’ and the ‘Forest Learning Zone’. The Recreation Zone, which is wheelchair accessible, allows visitors to wander its paths freely, with trails suitable for all ages and ability levels. The Forest Learning Zone on the other hand serves as a hub for ongoing scientific research, advancing efforts to study and preserve it. Here, access is limited to pre-booked tours led by experienced guides, known as “nature interpreters”.

A cycling tour through the Japanese highlands

Known for its rolling hills, Nasu Highlands is a haven for cyclists. With its varied terrain, Nasu Highlands caters to cyclists of all abilities from casual to seasoned riders. Autumn is an especially good time to see the hills and forests in red, orange and yellow foliage. Ride along scenic forest roads, pass through charming villages and pedal alongside farmland. Various tours offer different opportunities to interact with the local community, from visiting the local farmers market, having a meal at a farmer’s house or stopping by a traditional shrine.

From multi-day bike trips to one-day guided bike tours, homegrown company Ride Experience has a variety of riding tours. Those looking for a rush of adrenaline can check out the Forest Gravel Ride to explore Nasu Highlands on a heavy-duty fat-bike. Ride by the river side, through the forest and along hidden pathways. For a more casual and relaxing ride opt for the Nasu Satoyama Farm Ride where participants will get the opportunity to immerse in the rural countryside. This tour allows riders to explore Japan’s unspoiled scenery, visit traditional farmhouses and learn about the local history. Highlights include a full-course lunch prepared by the lady of the farmhouse.

Onsen culture and tradition

It is no secret that Japan is home to an abundance of onsen but the Nasu Highlands is home to several iconic spots – including the Nasu Yuzen Shrine which is dedicated to the god of onsen. Established in 630 as a place of thanksgiving for the discovery of the hot springs, the shrine is the setting of the “Dai Festival” which takes place on 8 and 9 October every year. During the festival, participants perform various traditional dances, including the Ozawa’s Lion Dance, which is designated as an ‘Intangible Cultural Property of Nasu Machi’.

At the top of the list is Shika-no-Yu, a public hot spring facility located in Nasu Town which is said to have opened in 630 AD, boasting a history of nearly 1,400 years. Considered to be one of the oldest onsen in the Tochigi prefecture, Shika-no-Yu is the source for many of the surrounding onsen ryokans. The sulfur spring baths, with a milky white colour, are split into six temperature levels ranging from 41-48 degrees celsius. This strongly acidic spring has a high bactericidal effect and has been said since long ago to be good for wounds and skin conditions.

The Nasu Highlands’ area is dotted with traditional onsen ryokan (Japanese inns) where travellers can spend the night, enjoy a relaxing onsen bath and indulge in traditional Japanese kaiseki (multi-course meal) dining. There are options ranging from traditional such as Itamuro Onsen Daikokuya to the likes of Nasu Bettei Kai which feature a more modern design.

Nasu Highlands is also home to historical sites like the Nasu Imperial Villa and Nasu Shrine, which offer a glimpse into Japan’s rich heritage. Additionally, family-friendly attractions such as the Nasu Animal Kingdom and Nasu Highland Park make it an ideal destination for all ages.

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