Finnish Fashion is just the beginning of Helsinki’s culturally rich and savvy city

By Karen Loftus

Finland, one of Europe’s wealthiest countries is also one of their most fashion forward countries. The Design District in Helsinki is just one of the many places Finnish creativity is being expressed.

Slip in to heart of Helsinki’s city center in The Design District, a cozy corner and provocative spot, comprised of 25 streets and over 150 members consisting of jewelry, fashion and interior designers celebrating alongside, galleries, chic eateries, hot spas and hip design hotels. It’s one stop shopping for trendsetters and the culturally creative.

Start off on Esplenadi, Helsinki’s classic European street. The grand opulent boulevard is comparable to, Paris’ Champs Elysee, Berlin’s Kudam and New York’s Fifth Avenue. Many of the deign district spots are sprinkled on side streets on either side, if not on the Boulevard. 

For those looking for interior peace and creativity, Marimekko, Finland’s flagship fashion house for individuals and interiors continues to wow those in search of classic and contemporary prints. After Jackie O signed on in the 60’s, the print party shows no sign of slowing down. They have signed on artists, the young and unknown to keep up with pop culture and today’s taste, keeping them relevant and on the fashion front. They continue to reprint retro and classic prints on all, from pillows to dishware. Long live Marrimekko.

Other interior icons are Aretek’s design, Iitala’s glassware, SECCO’s recycled treasures from wasteland for the socially and fashionably conscious and of course Aero for their classic and contemporary furniture. You’re sure to recognize many groundbreaking pieces, as Aero is as much a shop as it is a mini museum. Take the time to feel the furniture.

For the outwardly expressive the fashion is flourishing all over the city. I knew I was on the right path when I was coveting the effortlessly sexy winter coat in front of me while boarding the plane to Finland. The woman wearing it said with flair andconfidence that can’t be bought, only acquired, “It’s Ivana Helsinki,” as if I knew. I had heard of her, but that was my closest encounter. Ivana is UK’s Marni or America’s Marc Jacobs. She’s the city’s hip, it designer. Run don’t walk for a piece of Ivana.

Other worthy wares, HANNA SAREN’s shoes, worn by fashionista Carrie Bradshaw on set in Sex in the City, Lumi’s leather goods, sold in their shop, a fashion fiesta housing several finds and other lines such as the edgy Finsk, a fierce UK shoe designer and others.
 

The Design District is just a jumping off point. This city is expressing itself at every turn with a mad mix of Empire Style buildings, similar to St. Petersburg as Helsinki is often called, Little St. Petersburg. It is hard to forget their Russian roots. They’re everywhere.

This is mixed with art deco and art nouveau structures, foreboding or vibrantly colored, blood red buildings that were melancholic, moody and seductive. These buildings constantly stopped me in my fashion tracks as the evocative doorways, windows, knobs and archways captivated me. They can’t be explained. They have to be seen. Like the buildings themselves, no two are alike. 

Helsinki is a city filled with historical monuments and museums. For the city’s history lesson The National Museum will fill in the blanks. For art loves, Ateneum will fill your classic needs, while Kiasma’s building and art will fill that contemporary niche.

For historical hits there are a few can’t miss, the neoclassical cathedral and grand Senate Square, The Rock Church, the classic Opera House, Alvar Alto’s Finlandia Hall, The Presidential Palace, Old Market Hall and of course Esplanade Park on the Esplanadi.

Two of my favorites were the stunning Sibelius Monument in Sibelius Park and the Central Railway Station. The station, a jugend style building similar in style to the city’s St. John’s Church has the larger than life quality of any classic European or major American rail station. This hub of modern life with its rush of local and far-flung travelers has a few vintage windows in to another time. The still pix can be seen in small authentic eateries in the station, largely occupied by locals arguing, playing cards or catching up. It’s a great place to be a voyeur.

There are many stops for chic eats and dreamy sleeps from haute hotels to local institutions. At the Crown Plaza, the buffet breakfast is an abundant display of smoked salmon, herring and sausages. Mecu, their Mediterranean restaurant was surprisingly inspired for hotel fare.

The classic Kamp Hotel is a must. This regal retreat right on the Esplanade is great for people watching inside and out. We’re told rock and rollers from Bono to Mick seek shelter from their storm in Kamp’s Quarters. Treat yourself to chilled champagne along with your steak sandwich. The midday meal is well worth every penny and won’t break the bank. Next door, Glo Hotel is for the tragically hip. At a very reasonable fraction of the price you get the same locale and share spa and gym services with Kamp. The bed is cocoon like and requires at least one, maybe two wake up calls.

Klaus K up the street is the city’s quintessential design hotel. US born Marc Skvorc moved to Helsinki after he fell in love with a local. The locals have clearly fallen in love with Marc and his haute hotel. The lobby is designed as a gallery with rising and well-known artist’s works. The art is woven seamlessly throughout the property, in rooms, restaurants and the bar.

Inspired by emotions found in mythical literature, each hotel room has an emotional theme played out provocatively to absolute perfection in color and design. Ahjo lounge makes fresh cocktails prepared by a sexy staff in a modern backdrop with an old world welcome.

A fond farewell to the city is best experienced at Saslik, one of the premier Russian restaurants in town, From décor to cuisine, it’s classic Tsarist Russia with Russian red rooms, braised bear, venison like reindeer, lots of caviar and classic condiments. It’s not a quiet night. Russian Troubadours will sing and play often at the table. It’s a can’t miss classic!

Helsinki has a busy harbour and easy access to neighboring Sweden and Estonia’s Tallinn, which gave us Skype and a fashion icon, Baltic supermodel Carmen Kass.

Destinations, like cocktails and couture are best if of another era. Estonia, a highlight of our trip is an old world gem filled with medieval treasures and architecture that are all the rage and remain in fashion today.

If popping over for the day take the express, as it is little over an hour, half the usual time. In winter take extra precautions, as the Baltic can be very volatile. Watching things fly across the cabin was initially funny until I joined them in flight.

I regretted not preparing with pills and really regretted everything I ate…ever. You’ll get no love nor help from a local. They’re still and humored as they sit and suck on cigarettes and sip several early morning beers, a challenging vision considering your condition. Our group appeared to be at war. Our seemingly fractured fivesome took opposing corners of the boat. We had steely stares as we quietly focused forward, until we docked. (Big exhale!) Sickness aside, it is well worth the trip as a lot can be seen in a day. But I do recommend spending the night, as you won’t want to leave.

Old Town is an immediate fall back in time. The Medieval jewel, a Unesco World Heritage Site requires a few hours to wander. Old Town Square is a great place to capture the moment with St. Olaf’s Church, once the tallest building in the world and it’s Gothic Spire, a picture perfect backdrop.

Olde Hansa is kitschy to the core. If you forget its Medieval you’re reminded in every detail, dish and moment. The staff’s committment to medieval detail is admirable. The food, wench like waitresses, décor, music and the many plates of game, which are served family style set the time and tone. There’s plenty of herring, salmon, spices, jams and condiments as well. I’m not much for beer, but adored their herb beer, a perfect pair to their incredibly rich dishes. Best way to walk off the meal is getting lost in their old world winding streets.

Local designers are hit and miss, but their digs where they live, create and sell their wares are enviable spots, the perfect urban oasis. I left longing for a creative life on a cobblestone street and a room of my own.

Before heading back to battle with the Baltic, treat yourself with a stop by The Russian Orthodox church, Alexander Nevsky’s Cathedral, Toompea Castle and Kadriorg Palace. If traveling on Sunday, stop by the Recycling Center a by-product of an Oxford Education. A returned socially conscious local couldn’t handle his countries sudden excess, wealth and waste. This fairly new center is a hub of social activity, conscious and otherwise. 

Shopping in Tallinn and Helsinki will deplete you of your Euros, but the Recycling Center is filled with trash and treasures. Clothing will cost you, but old tea sets and ceramics were the big finds and will cost but a Euro or two for a bagful of goddies and antiquities.

The Baltic boat back was no less choppy, but the motion sickness pills made for a smooth ride and some very sweet dreaming. The perfect finish to our trip. 

Tourism Boards and Finnish Friends-

Tourism Helsinki: http://www.hel2.fi/tourism/EN/matko.asp
Tourism Tallinn: www.tourism.Tallinn.ee   

Helsinki Expert – Tours, bookings & travel needs: www.helsinkiexpert.fi
Helsinki Card- Unlimited citywide travel cards available throughout the city

PHOTOS AND TEXT BY KAREN LOFTUS – [email protected]