Table Matters…Wine and Dining in Seattle

Sumptuous Seattle 

(Scallops at BOKA)

Seattle, like it’s Pacific Northwest neighbors Portland and Vancouver, has a thriving wine, culinary and cocktail culture. It’s no surprise as they are producing some of the world’s best wines. Washington has more than doubled its production in the past five years and is second nationally with more than 500 wineries. Like the world-renowned regions in Italy and France, great pours naturally lead to great plates.

Here is a small sampling of some of Seattle’s top spots where chefs are pushing the culinary envelope, pouring new world wines while adhering to the old world ways of daily shopping, locally sourcing and if and when they can, growing it on their own.

Seattle and the surrounding areas has created a thriving, quietly competitive and wildly inspired foodie scene. Here are a few directions to head in, if your clients are looking to take a culinary tour, discover a new world wine region or if they’re simply interested in eating in a top spot while in Seattle.

BOKA

The low-key, yet chic minimalist ambiance at BoKa in Hotel 1000 suggests you may be in for something special, yet nothing prepares you for the exceptional experience at hand.

The bar and the restaurant was a buzz on a Thursday as we arrived. Before we dipped in to the dizzying array of wines on offer, we eased our way in to the experience with one of their inspired cocktails. The Ginger Thai made with muddled ginger, shaken with vodka, lime sour and sugar was the perfect way to awaken the palette. My friend had the White Peach Cosmo with peach puree and fresh rosemary. We argued over whose drink was better. I’m sticking with my decision, the Ginger.

(Balsamic Jam and Olive Oil butter at BOKA)

He was so seduced by his Cosmo; he continued on course with the cocktails opting for the Retreat made with Martin’s gin, sweet vermouth, Campari, lemon sour and Tazo passion tea. He tippled while I wandered through the vines. The staff is very savvy and will suggest based on your preference and the pairings at hand. Recommended flights of two wines, of their choosing or yours are available.

We let our waiter exercise his suggestive nature leading the culinary way. We knew we were in the best of hands as Executive chef Angie Roberts is committed to organically grown, sustainably produced and locally grown products. Her talent came across in bite one with the bread plate, a great test on what is to come. It was served with their own balsamic jam and olive oil butter made with ¾ butter, ¼ olive oil. We had to remind ourselves that that was just the beginning. 

My friend and I went family style, which I recommend. We had the Sugar Cane Skewered Crab cakes and the Ahi Tuna Poke with ponzu dressing to start. Each dish was pitch perfect, rich with flavor, yet wildly light. The Beet Salad with river blue cheese and candied pecans was lovely as was the Grilled Tenderloin Steak served alongside fingerling potatoes with bacon, tempura fried blue cheese and red wine au jus. But the evening’s standout was the succulent Scallops with Spiced Carrot Mouse and veal glace.

Our server steered us in all the right wine directions with a Wilamette Valley Adelsheim Pinot Noir (2006), a Novelty Hill Cab (2005) and a Gifford Hirlinger red blend (2005). Bliss! www.bokaseattle.com

The Barking Frog

The Barking Frog at Willows Lodge in Woodinville is right next door to the famed Herbfarm Restaurant. That’s a lot to live up to, but The Frog doesn’t seem to be the least bit fazed, as it’s a far cry from its culinary stepsister. It’s a super star in it’s own right with one of the best Pacific Northwest wine lists with several Washington, Wilamette Valley (OR), Paso Robles (CA) and Okanagan (Canadian) wines.

On a Sunday night the restaurant had a mix of couples of all ages, groups of girlfriends and big tables filled with a mix of business and pleasure. The high ceiling, fire pit and open kitchen made for a festive, Seattle casual vibe.

Executive chef Bobby Moore is highly noted as one of the city’s best. It’s no wonder as he and sous chef Jonathon James together with the precise pairings of award winning sommelier Jeffrey Dorgan will make for one of your best culinary adventures ever. I couldn’t decide which direction to head in, which is always a good sign.
 
I was missing my local mate, as he is a true foodie and the shared plates and choices between us allow for a diverse and exploratory experience.

(Dungenesse Crab Timbale at The Barking Frog)

But I was left in the best hands. The apple doesn’t fall far from the culinary tree, as my server Justina was excellent with a vested interest in the success of my meal from start to finish. She was spot on in the decision making process with her precise pairs, regardless of my countering, which I challenged her but once. With the many Wine Spectator Awards adorning the walls, it was safe to say they knew their way around their menu and their wines. Once I got out of my way and theirs, I was seamlessly led.

I chose the Hudson Valley Fois Gras Terrine perfectly complemented with apricot and sultana agrodolce, which was divine. Apparently that is a chef specialty as is the Grand Marnier Prawns, which she insisted on. It, not necessarily my choice, melted in my mouth. The warm Dungenesse Crab Timbale with lightly butter-braised leeks was heavenly, but the Olive Oil fresh Poached Walu, another signature and direction I was lead in, was perhaps one of the best fish dishes to date, carefully prepared with Finnochiona Salami and Leek Foam. In a truly celestial setting, it was by far the star. The mix of flavors just popped on the palette. Amazing!

(Kobe Beef Cheeks at The Barking Frog)

There was little to no room for the Braised Kobe Beef Cheeks, but I did manage a taste of the rich dish. The many wines were equally divine from Reisling to Viognier, Cab, Red Blend and the Syrah Ice wine, which was the perfect ending to this inspired and well-told culinary tale I will not soon forget. www.willowslodge.com/culinary-barkingfrog.php

Trellis

 The Trellis Restaurant at The Heathman Hotel in Kirkland, just outside of Seattle was heaving with people on a Monday night with nary a spare seat. Apparently, eastside locals have made this a fave that they frequent. Chef Brian Scheeser, a recently nominated James Beard chef is on every one’s lips, highly noted for not only locally sourcing, but for having his own multi acre farm in nearby Woodinville, a Washington wine region. This is true farm to fork cuisine.

(Lamb Carpaccio at Trellis)

We each had the Lucien Brut Rose to start the evening and wasted no time ordering the Avocado & Citrus Salad, Pear & Gorgonzola Flatbread with Parma Ham and the Lamb Carpaccio, which was dizzyingly delicious, light, yet full of flavor with a minted tomato salad.

We couldn’t resist his Pan Seared Salmon, recently prepared at the James Beard House in New York. I had an Amavi Walla Walla Syrah with the Wild Boar and Duck Cassoulet with Grilled French sausage, which was an adventurous dish served French style at the table with fresh flageolet beans, the surprise in the dish that we couldn’t get enough of.

(Pan Seared Salmon at Trellis)

Not a huge fan of lemon desserts, I was pleasantly surprised by the Lemon Sage Flan, but not the least bit surprised by the perfection of the Profiteroles. www.trellisrestaurant.net

bin vivant

I couldn’t wait to see what was in store at bin vivant. It’s no wonder they are making magic at the table at this provocative new spot at the Woodmark Hotel in Kirkland with two women at the respective food and beverage helm. Chef Lisa Nakamura, hailing from Thomas Keller’s French Laundry in Napa and a few global spots in between and Dawn Smith the long running sommelier at Canlis, often touted Seattle’s best restaurant, are clearly changing the way we approach food and wine.

Rather than planning your meal first and pairing after the fact, they let the wine lead the way. Once the pours are put in place, the careful pairing of the food follows. bin vivant is for the serious wine connoisseur and wine lovers of any level as they make the process playful.

(bin vivant’s chef Lisa Nakmura)

Chef Lisa has lived in many ports in between her home in Hawaii and her recent return to Seattle. From Korea to Germany and France, her many global influences make their way on to the plate, all the while adhering to the seasonal sensibilities that were apparent in many Seattle spots. Harvest was the theme seen in the local cuisine at the time of my visit, which made it’s way to the bin vivant plate as well.

I was dining with a local friend, an ex-chef who studied with Emeril back in the day. He and chef Lisa immediately talked shop and dished about the menu. He was a great companion as he is an engaging, yet discerning diner.

We took Lisa’s suggestions and started with the Caramelized Scallops and the Sweet Potato Gnocchi made with Brie cheese, chestnuts and white truffle oil, which knocked us off our culinary feet. Each dish has the suggested pairings. For instance, the Scallops suggested pair was Not Quite Sweet. Look left on your menu and there are three whites in Not Quite Sweet to choose from, a Riesling, a Pinot Gris and a Clos du Breuill.

The Gnocchi’s pairs were Fruit and Cream, three different Chardonnays. You can choose one of the suggested three or go for the full flight (of three), which I strongly suggest. Dawn Smith not only has one of the best international wine lists in the city, she also has an exceptional choice by the glass. One of the boons in the restaurant is a system in which they can keep a wine for a 30-day period versus other restaurants that may cork and continue to pour days later, a pet peeve of mine. Each glass here is as fresh as if it was just opened.

(The Roasted Venison at bin vivant)

 For our main, we had the Sautéed Hawaiian Sunfish, a nod to her Hawaiian roots and the Cinderella Story, Roasted Venison with Pumpkin Speatzle and Red Wine Chocolate Demi. The harvest driven dishes, the Gnocchi and Venison were our table’s favorite.

The Sunfish was paired with Fruit and Cream. The Venison was paired with Earthy Goodness, a rich group of reds, a Les Sinard from Chateauneuf du Pape, an Italian Valpolicella and a Spanish Solanes. The trio of Autumn Gelato for our dessert was perfectly paired with our bit of bliss. www.thewoodmark.com/index-binvivant.php

The Herbfarm

 The Herbfarm started as simple tale with a simple sale over thirty years ago. Bill and Lola Zimmerman found they had a few extra herbs and sold them on the side of the road in a rural town just 30 miles east of Seattle. This led to local requests, the building of a greenhouse and a son who remodeled the garage into a restaurant. Their herb driven 6-course meal had an educational element and an immediate feverish following and never an empty seat. The son Ron Zimmerman once the chef and his wife Carrie Van Dyck, the host, remain the proprietors today.

(A Personal Welcome at The Herbfarm)

This herb driven, nine-course meal, now paired with six wines is a culinary masterpiece. Global gourmands put this once in a lifetime experience on their life’s wish list. An event saved for honeymoons, proposals or for a few fortuitous locals, it’s a mad meal each time the menu changes, which is bimonthly. No two meals are exactly alike as the day’s sourced ingredients can create subtle culinary differences daily. The Herbfarm believes in supporting the local farmers, foragers, cheese makers, wineries and fisherman. So do we.

The four and a half hour extravaganza starts with an informal 30-minute intro and history of the farm and restaurant by Carrie and a wee teaser of what is to come. Once the doors are opened, the full theatrics kick in. Bill takes over introducing Executive chef Keith Luce, an award winning James Beard chef and once sous chef in Clinton’s kitchen in The White House. He, like Ron and Carrie was incredibly unassuming considering his accomplishments. You want to blame it on the Seattle landscape, but his international credentials and resume woulddictate otherwise.

The chef explains the dinner, course-by-course, scene-by-scene, and how it came about. One of our evening’s courses was influenced by his own Thanksgiving’s history with an oyster, which was woven beautifully in to our chowder. His intro is dotted with the witty banter of sommelier Michael Kaminski, his comedic sidekick who interjects his bit of business concerning the wines.

(Celebrated chef Keith Luce and crew at Herbfarm)

Once the games and the show begin with wines poured, Carrie zips around the tables chatting, serving and encouraging an exchange of our first foodie experiences. I didn’t play in to the table games as I found the meal festive and playful enough. You can opt for a private table or go Euro style where you are seated with strangers. I took my best friend’s Mom, a 65-year-old newlywed, anxious to show off her new fresh tattoo, her first. We sat with a witty British couple, a local Washington couple, an architect and tech exec and another duo, an Aussie, ex singer-dancer who married a military man. We were a spirited crew, but the star by far, was the meal, which took nine well-deserved bows.

The evening and each course have a theme. Our evening’s theme was American Harvest. Our first course, Saying Thanks in Small Ways, a trio of Dungeness Crab Cakes and Trout Roe, Poached Foie Gras with Vanilla Bean Gastrique and Sunchoke Panna Cotta with Montana Paddlefish Caviar paired with a Willamette Valley Argyle Brut was just the beginning. Sound Oyster & Salsify Chowder with an Okanagan Valley Sauvignon Blanc and Applewood –Roasted Black Cod with a Dundee Hills Pinot Gris (OR) were the performances that followed.

The wines were free flowing and if you got attached to one, you could hold on to it demanding an encore as your cup and your joy runneth over with continued requests, which I was guilty of, more than once. Michael the sommelier was busy bragging between pours that he has the best job in the world. One can’t argue, as he is privy to obscure wines in a cellar containing over 26,000 bottles.

(Cranberry Sorbet at Herbfarm)

The American Bronze Heritage Turkey with an Oregon Brick House Gamay Noir and The Running of the Deer, Venison Loin on Braised Shank Pave with Columbia Valley Baer Ursa was by far a table fave, the tour de force and culinary climax. A Pilgrimage of Desserts and the finale, a Selection of Small Treats, followed the Cheese to Please and Cranberry Sorbet, another showstopper. If you want to take it higher or merely advantage of the worldly wines, dip in to the sommelier’s Special Wines by the Glass or the Discovery Flights he prepares for the evening’s feast for an extra charge. 

This whole experience was European in style and feel with an elegant unraveling of each dish, scene and the evening. Time seemed to stand still as the hours slipped by. It was pure and simple, rippled with the sublime. Its no wonder USA Today touted it the #1 restaurant in the country and National Geographic # 1 in the world.

Like any great performance, you didn’t want it to end. As the culinary curtain closed, I was already left wishing for a revisit, hoping that perhaps, I can experience this once in a lifetime experience, just once again. www.theherbfarm.com

How to Cook a Wolf

Three’s a charm for Ethan Stowell who has already made urban magic at his downtown locale Union and his more recent star Tavolata, a hip haunt in Belltown. His coziest outpost to date, How to Cook a Wolf in Queen Anne is already a neighborhood fave. Locals and city slickers from all sides of Seattle line up around the block for a wee seat at the intimate Wolf. They don’t take reservations, so plan ahead

The small spot had several open seats as we arrived late on a drizzly Sunday. It was the perfect cozy and casual ambiance with regulars behind the bar and others in animated conversation at the table, drawing out their dining experience. It was just what you’d want in a restaurant, rich and interesting, and that was just the atmosphere.

(Wolf’s Tagilatelli with the Geoduck, White Wine, Garlic & Chilies)

Alex our server was excellent. He started us on a bottle of Mateo Correggia’s Langhe Bianco (2005) Sauvignon Blanc, a crisp white with strong grapefruit notes, which we absolutely loved. Wolf unlike other Seattle spots only pours Italian wines, a perfect complement to their rustic and earthy plates meant for sharing.

We started with the Buffalo Mozzarella w/ Pangrato, Hamachi Crudo and Chilies Lime, a twist on Bruschetta made with Chickpea, Anchovy and Marinated Radicchio and the Piccolo Potato Salad, which I could not get enough of. It was a simple mix of potato and tuna salad with confit Tuna, Horseradish Aioli and Capers. That with the wine was more than enough. Yet with an appetite to explore, we continued.

We segued in to a rich, rustic red, the Feradori’s Teroldego Rotaliano (2005), made with 100% Teroldego grapes, perfect for the Roasted Venison with Crabapple Agrodolce, Grape Must Marmalade and our pasta dishes, the Gnocchetti layered with Beef Shortrib, Marjoraro, and Chantarelles and the Tagilatelli, our favorite with the Geoduck, White wine, Garlic, and Chilies just popped on the palette.

It was a perfect finish to my Seattle experience. We loved the staff, and the sexy chef who was under the weather, made a late night appearance. If I lived in the city, this would by my local, sating all the senses. It’s easy to imagine a great wine, a small plate and seductive conversation on a regular basis. I wouldn’t have to be hungry to work up an appetite for this place. www.howtocookawolf.com 
 

PHOTOS AND TEXT BY KAREN LOFTUS