Aspirational Skiers and Boarders – The Big Treble in NZ – awesome!

I was close to uttering a throaty “Ohhmmmm” as one of five Harris Mountains Heli-Ski Novices genuflecting at the feet of our HMH guide Russell Carr, who being a Kiwi, was quick to point out that hero-worshipping him was not really that necessary…

[Pictured: a HMH Helicopter]

We had been instructed to kneel down around Russell’s backpack, which was the first thing that came out of the helicopter (with Russell) after landing on a precarious looking ridge of snow.

Following the pre-flight briefing, the slick organisation of the guides and pilots, and the exhilaration of riding the world’s best lift, I felt like I was in the opening scene of one of those classic powder movies where everyone lifts their skis & boards as the helicopter flys a 360 around you.

It is a unique moment in your life, and its easy to understand why Russell says that this is the best part of his day – standing with his clients as the helicopter disappears after the first drop, and all goes quiet while everyone experiences one of the best ever reality checks that only mother nature can provide.

Yep! You are a tiny inconsequential little hominid in a huge jagged, white and silent mountain world.

That is until, someone says with reverence “Look up there!” All eyes traced a dot that became larger and larger until one of God’s odd creations, the Kia (and a large one!) dropped down and stood next to us on the snow, then proceeded to walk around looking expectant!

A gentle reminder of the presence of humankind, and from a bird’s point of view we weren’t really that far from Treble Cone Ski Resort further down the Matukituki Valley (where it most likely had learned some bad habits ..), however, the reality for us is that we really were in the wilds of New Zealand’s southern alps – no roads out, just majestic vistas of white and mountain peaks.

Which brings me back to genuflecting on one of nature’s great precipices.  The words of Witney Thurlow, another HMH guide of 20 years sprang to mind, “When the snow is good, everyone’s a hero!”  The snow WAS good and I was rarin’ to be a hero! In true cliff-hanger style, before we push off into powder-hound delirium, it is worth noting some of Witney’s earlier words of wisdom.

Originating from the Rockies, he rates the NZ Alps as the world’s best heli-skiing destination.  Though the tops are not as high as others in the world, the sheer vertical relief plus huge dumps of snow from the westerlies all equals a vast untouched powder paradise in a glacial area larger than the other Alps we all know so well.

The facts are overwhelming – 400 runs with over 200 peaks to jump on to, seven separate mountain ranges, and over 4,000 vertical feet of treeless skiing. One way in and one way out (unless you like snow caves and strangely prefer walking to gliding along…)

[Pictured: Kingsley on top of the Kiwi world!

Witney enthuses that the NZ Alps are geographically rougher than other countries and are in fact growing every day, whereas the Rockies are wearing down and now appear to him as being “Kinda Roundy!”

My day (and it does take a whole day) was in the North Buchanans, on the south-western side of Lake Wanaka, New Zealand’s fourth largest lake.  We’re talking crystal clear water, snow capped peaks & raw natural beauty.

19k around the lake from Wanaka is Treble Cone, spread over three large basins, it is the largest ski and snowboard area in the South Island. Beyond Treble Cone and further up the valley are three staging areas used by HMH to reach their expansive (and exclusive) terrain around Wanaka & Queenstown. We started our lift from the second staging area.

So the scene was set (literally!). Standing on Triple Peak.  Reluctantly I turned my gaze away from the beauty of Mt Aspiring and looked down. And down. I contemplated the visual snow feast before me.  I had always thought that you had to have a lot of experience to be let loose in the white stuff off piste. WRONG. Down the hill we went – “Shoosshhh!!! And more schussing!!” Groans of pleasure and delight from all.

As an intermediate skier, by the end of the day I was happily attempting to create those “first tracks” you see in all the movies – in fact HMH has worked with Warren Miller Films, Teton gravity Research and a host of film and TV productions due to location, location, location!

Personal opinion – I would not recommend heli-skiing for an absolute beginner skier or snowboarder, however I must agree with the guides’ mantra “If you can ski down from a chairlift, you can heli-ski”. The snow is soft, plentiful and unless you are absolutely out there, you will be very hard pressed to do yourself any damage at all. Think cotton wool and maintaining a rhythm (OK and a slight bit of aggression actually helps you control where you are heading, but its all good!)

The other point where I used to fret a little, was being the ‘slow one in the group’. HMH have this totally sorted through a well thought out ‘Ability Questionnaire’ which should ensure that you join the right group of people for your day of fun – and let me tell you – that’s fun with a capital F! There were six helicopters out the day I went skiing so we all ended up in cosy little groups of similarly skilled mixed skiers & boarders.

Never ceases to amaze how expectations and reality nearly always differ.  And it does make a difference who you decide to go heli-skiing with, as an event like your first heli-ski is that much better when handled by a fabulous crew such as HMH.

What I did not expect from HMH was:

Their ability to match the terrain to the skill level of our group

Arial thrills and views between ‘ski lifts’

The magnificent seemingly untouched terrain we skied

The gourmet buffet lunch served on an ice table in the middle of the Alps

The sheer length of each run – we only managed FOUR in a full day.

The excellent ski/boarding instructions & tips from the guides

The knowledge and experience of all the guides & pilots (Average age 46!)

Skipping from peak to peak in the helicopter

The safety aspects from solid mentoring of guides, avalanche detectors & their use, selection of terrain & big picture view of the weather giving that warm fuzzy feeling even though we are in helicopters and skiing off peaks

The added bonus is being based in Wanaka, though Queenstown is not far away, just add 45mins. For the party-hard après set, Queenstown is probably the preferred location, but for the more laid-back set, seeking sophisticated atmosphere, great restaurants, bars & accommodation, Wanaka is hard to beat.

Treble Cone is the perfect training ground for your heli-skiing day and if you have to leave loved ones and mates behind, there are lots of options to choose from besides skiing or boarding.

Whilst the Mole’s Assistant visited ski heaven, his mates cycled to a vineyard for a wine tasting, then sat out overlooking the lake for a lazy lunch, so it could best be summed up as Wan-a-wine, Wan-a-cycle, Wan-a-beer, Wan-a-Pizza, Wan-a-Cab (a real taxi company!), Wan-a-sleep, pause…. Wan-another-beer….!! Etc.

The cost of course is an issue for many – effectively, you are trading the cost of five days skiing (including tickets, instruction, hire costs, transport, food) for one glorious day of heliskiing. I would have no hesitation in trading double that number of days for the amazing experience I had.

The skiing is just one part of the whole (yes, a great part) but it is all the other components that create an unforgettable experience that all skiers and boarders should do once in their life…

I definitely Wan-a-do the Big Three again: Heli Mountains Happiness, or HMH (Corny eh? But oh so very true!!).  If thoughts of spring skiing are in the air, check out New Zealand’s largest heli-ski company for a day to remember.

A Report by Kingsley Mason