In a dayabeeyah down the Nile

Standing for over 1,000 years on the banks of the Nile, Cairo is a city of antiquity that has stood the test of time. Alongside Roman, Arab, and Turkish monuments, ancient souks and khawas (coffee houses) there are malls, restaurants featuring cuisines from around the globe and skyscrapers. The  hustle and bustle of Africa’s biggest city is offset by the palpable presence of the Great Pyramids and the Nile River which are its heart and soul.

In ancient times the only way to visit the pyramids and other temples and monuments in Southern Egypt would have been to set sail down the Nile. Though airlines operate flights to these tourist spots, it still is a good way to visit the historical and cultural monuments that line its banks. Nile cruises are usually three, four or seven nights. The ideal time of the year to go on one is between October and mid-April when the locks on the river are open and the weather is pleasant. The shorter tours ply between Luxor and Aswan, while the longer cruises travel further north, with day trips overland to more interior locations. A cruise can cost anything between $55.00 USD to $300.00 USD per night, with seasonal hikes of  25% to 50%.

Modern-day Nile cruisers have evolved from the traditional dayabeeyah which means “golden boat” in Arabic. These boats were used by royalty and in their present incarnation are floating hotels that have all the modcons, including swimming pools, hot tubs, in-room videos and even internet access. The restored dayabeeyahs that sail the Nile offer a more scaled-down version of luxury and can be compared to a floating bed and breakfast. Being smaller than the Nile cruisers they don’t have to follow a rigid schedule and are able to berth at sites that are not accessible to their larger relatives. Their main charm is the fact that they give you a glimpse of the past.

Nile cruise diners are available for an evening out within Cairo and offer good food, entertainment and a view of the city lights. They are open between 5-8 pm and last about 1-2 hours. They have a number of set menus priced between 50-90 pounds. The boat in Agatha Christie’s famous novel Death on the Nile is said to have been loosely based on the Nile Peking, one of the finest dinner cruises in Egypt. Unlike most other dinner cruises that run the gamut of entertainment options from whirling dervishes to belly dancers the only entertainment it chooses to offer is the Nile rushing by.

One of  Cairo’s noteworthy dining and entertainment venues is Le Pacha 1901. Originally a paddle boat from the turn of the century, Le Pacha is moored along the Nile and has 10 restaurants that offer international cuisines. L’Asiatique was judged the best restaurant in Egypt in 2006, in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, organized by Restaurant Magazine. It has a sushi bar and features dishes from China, Japan, Thailand and India.

Restaurants that serve only Egyptian food are cheaper than those serving other cuisines. They offer bamiya, an okra and meat dish in a tomato sauce; molokhiya, a green vegetable soup; fresh grilled shrimp and fish; shish kebab of lamb and the baked, ground-meat kebabs known as kofta. Among the best places for Egyptian dishes is El Tabie. It only serves fuul – the Egyptian national dish, made up of brown beans served mashed or boiled – and taamia, fuul and parsley balls, fried in balls at $3 per head. Another well-known restaurant for Egyptian food is Felafel which has a good sampling of local delicacies at reasonable prices.

Khawas meaning coffee or coffee shop are sidewalk cafés that are the popular watering holes for people to meet. Traditional beverages are served (does not include American coffee) and does include tea, Turkish coffee and tamarind. Robaeyyat El Khayaam which is a stone’s throw from the Marriott is a popular hangout. Hookahs are the other regular features in a khawa. A cup of Turkish coffee or mint tea can be had at Feshawi’s in the Khan el-Khalili bazaar, an ancient coffeehouse. Alongside the more simple khawas there are those that have been modernized and are therefore more expensive. For hot night spots take your pick of Cap D’Or, El Gato Negro, Cafe Curnosky and El Cinzano. For old world charm it has to be the Barrel Lounge and Bar, and the Odeon Palace Bar.

The Khan el-Khalili bazaar is an experience. It has brass and copper trays and pots, and silver jewelry, handmade applique pillow covers ($10 to $20), wall hangings and tote bags, inlaid boxes and djellabas (the traditional robes for men and women). Kerdassa near the pyramids has hand-woven Egyptian rugs, cotton scarves and tapestries.

By Chitra Mogul